Windows To My Doors Of Perception…India

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Hello misses, yes we have a room, this way please.  I climb three flights of humid rain drenched stairs while carrying Pandemic The Magic bicycle to my room.  The door isn’t really a door, the door is a window, not a window fashioned into a door but an actual window. 
 

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The kind of window so often found at grandmas cottage on the lake.  The interior of the room is rustic with aging brown ply wood walls. A large, oddly wired ceiling fan hangs from a nail overhead. It wobbles around with an air of stubborn wisdom, and will not give up spinning an appreciated breeze without a dutiful effort.  The floor is covered in colorful mats and warm almost wool blankets. It is big enough for at least a dozen people.  It is a simple and a perfect retreat from all things “India” out on the street. 
 
 
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Have tea, relax misses.  As I chat with the owner and his brother over tea I have to laugh to myself for having to crawl through the entrance window instead of a door seems remarkably appropriate.  Is this your first time to India?  
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Apparently, I am not hiding the shock and awe or the excitement and tribulation of being in India all that well.  I have been in India for three days and now sit here at ‘ the windows to my doors of perception guest house’ wondering if my finger tips can unravel a story from my smiling baffled over stimulated mind. After all three days is four thousand three hundred and twenty seconds.
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I will sum it up like this.  I now truly and whole heartily understand why so many people have been coming to India for so many years either on drugs or to be on drugs. In fact, the next high potency strain of anything really should just be called INDIA. 

Lahore Never A Bore…The Photo Show

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The city of Lahore is never a bore

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My camera and spirit adamantly beckon for more

 

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Green sunrises are in bloom as the smell of pollution shifts and looms  

 

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However, my soul cannot be full of gloom  

 

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The streets are in a hustle, and crossing the street is a death defying shuffle

 

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With fresh visas is hand, Northern India calls me like an opening band

 

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Pakistan I will miss and is definitely worthy of a goodnight kiss

 

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My last night in Pakistan, Pandemic The Magic Bicycle awaits and the bags are packed

 

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For in the morning, I will be pedaling to India with the 40 (104) degree temperature hovering upon my perspiring back!

Oh Shit!

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“Oh shit” RUN!!!! I hear my two friends say as we stand midst a joyous crowd of thousands of dancing, singing, honking and smiling people.  I am short in a crowd, actually I am short even not in a crowd. However, regardless of my vertically challenged position, I cannot see that the riot police have just pulled a AK-47 on the crowd.   As the crowd turns toward me with childlike playful smiles, the seas of running Pakistani men engulf me like a bore tide on a full moon. 

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Where I come from, it is what you call a stampede.  I get separated from my friends and after running 100 feet like the lunatics among me, I find myself beached to a standstill, amongst the crowd, giggling, thinking WTF am I doing?  After all, doesn’t every travel advisor on the planet right now warn against non essential travel to Pakistan and issues a strict warning to avoid all public gatherings, especially of the nationalistic kind.  But this is so much fun and the crowds of folks are so happy to see foreigners that we are welcomed as guests by drum circles and dancing.   It is hard to say it is unsafe and much easier to say it is the best party I have been too in quite some time. 
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As I look up amongst the shoulders and backs I see a riot policeman high on a horse laughing at me as I stand alone giggling in the mess of happy crazed people.  He motions me towards him and from his horse tall view can see my friends and reunites me with my two crowd loving friends, an Ozzie woman who is a English teacher in China and British hitchhiker from Oxford University. Amidst the parting of the rioting sea of lunatics, we were scattered in opposite directions.
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We are two wooden barricades, and only ¼ kilometer from the Independence Day Celebration at the Pakistan/India border at Wagagh. However, thousands of people and a general atmosphere of compete joyful insanity quickly ends our scurry to go see whatever is up ahead.  For, the journey had clearly replaced the destination, on this Independence Day celebrating Pakistan’s separation from India, for 3 travelers from across the globe.

(all photos in this post are courtesy of Lune Staar, Ozzie woman who is a English teacher in China)

Rapping With The Man In Pakistan

 

As I venture fourth in a motorcycle rickshaw my headscarf flapping free in the chaos of the flooded Lahore streets, I am oddly bouncing away.  Not due the absent shocks of the rickshaw or the fact that we are going about 90MPH zigzagging inches from every vehicle we approach but bouncing to the beat of the Beastie Boys screaming rap songs into my headphones.  For some reason, I really enjoy listening to the Beastie Boys rapping on full volume while wearing a headscarf going ninety MPH in the back of a motorcycle rickshaw through the flooded streets of Lahore, Pakistan…who knew?
 
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The monsoon has arrived since I arrived the first time in Lahore six days ago by bicycle.  I return now by public transport with new visas in hand for Indian, Pakistan and Iran.  The streets are full of floating debris, sewer run off and knee deep fresh monsoon rain puddles.  The driver is barefoot due to the fact that he has been walking around in knee deep street phlegm for most of the afternoon.
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The sun is setting ending another day of fasting during the holy month of Ramadan.  The people on the streets are finally indulging in the day’s first water and fresh fruit. Goats nibble freely from topless tables that have been fashioned into eating troughs. Food is being prepared as people huddle together in the last drop of the day’s sunshine to eat, adding urgency to the thick smell of urbanization.
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As I wiz by, the chaos of this alluring Asian city unfolds before me.  The noise of it all deafened by my new friends the Beasty Boys, an appropriate musical choice for a country so visually heavy on the testosterone side of life.  Women too often at home behind closed curtains or seen faceless in public bundled in layers of secretive fabric, leaving the men to an overwhelming majority out on the streets.
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The sight of the traditional mans dress, the salwar kameez in a haze of pastel colors dart by me as we venture alley after alley in search of my guest house. Often in the midst of a flooded out street we come across men embracing.  Hand intermingled with hand crossing puddles, a familiar display of affection not to be misconstrued as romantic and is commonly seen in Asia as a gesture of friendship between men.  Interestingly enough, a similar affectionate holding of hands can be seen between star crossed mixed couples in the west.
 
As the screaming, rapping, Beastie Boys come to a end I can hear the siren echoing throughout the streets and the loud speakers of nearby mosques singing the day’s final prayer.  It is the official end of the days fast.  We pull up to the alley Guest House; I straighten my headscarf, and thank my rickshaw driver for a fine speedy delivery amongst the chaotic streets of Lahore. I dart inside to find some electricity to recharge my headset so the Beasties, my headscarf and I will be ready to set off by bicycle for Kashmir and the Indian Himalaya the day after next.
 
 
 

Call A Friend, Ask The Audience, 50/50…Who Wants To Be A Cyclist?

As I pedal up the mountainous Karakorum Highway (KKH) I am admiring the lush green hills, oh no, not again… I jam the brakes dive to the side of the road and throw up. Jump back up on the bicycle and pedal on… Another puke rally for me as I make my way over the mountains with 50 percent of my lunch left in my belly. The funny thing is I don’t want to stop pedaling because at each turn of the bend in the road the people here are truly fun to meet and be around.

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 Frequently throughout the day I am greeted with clapping from inside buses and women in head scarf smiling out the car windows. A couple of families on holiday that I met stopped and caught up to me to say hello several times throughout the final 200km of the KKH. Despite my collapsing stomach, the people of Pakistan are truly special.

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Call A Friend As anyone who reads my writing knows Mongolia has always been my favorite country. However, Pakistan, may be taking the lead in beautiful mountain scenery and ridiculously nice, fun people. The people lucky enough to live in Pakistan score off the charts on the sense of humor, warm hearted hospitality and kindness scale. My new phone is full of contact numbers of folks to stay with, dinner invitations, on call Urdu/English language translators and phone calls just checking in to say welcome to Pakistan.

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In case you forgot, I am also a girl in a Muslim country were women have a different role then in western countries. However, I have experienced nothing but respect, encouragement and offers of tea. Granted my ankles can spin a head or 2 around here but hey there is nothing wrong with having the world’s sexiest ankles. Besides I have never had any cleavage to distract anyone so for the first time in my life at least some part of me provides an extra tingle in somebody’s pants.

I was stopped today as I made my final push off the KKH into Islamabad. Some university students wanted to ask me to name 3 problems I have encountered since entering Pakistan and crossing down the KKH. I had to laugh and say honestly?, there really isn’t anything….. I thought hard and said I don’t think this counts but the kids want to play all the time and hold on to the back of the bike as I go up the mountains. At first the game’s intention is to push me up the hill but when the energy in their little legs wanes it becomes me towing them up the hill. Pandemic The Magic Bicycle is struggling to stay upright and get over the hill. I eventually stop, laugh with them for a few moments then tell them to let go and run beside me if they really want to run all the way across Pakistan. However, this probably could be easily prevented, if I actually could chew or carry all the gum some of them are trying to sell me.

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Ask The Audience The only other answer I could think of for the road side pop quiz was concerning some of the unique behavior of the young men on motorbikes after they sort out that I am indeed a rare breed of species, a foreign solo woman on a magic bicycle. The drive by ‘OMG look at her I might just crash look’ these guys sport is an ongoing concern as I pedal the world. And by no means NOT unique to the region.

However, here in Pakistan, the ‘OMG look at her I might just crash look’ has great entertainment value for me. When a guy on a motorbike decides to flirt it up while going mock ninety in heavy traffic, I am initially concerned for his wellbeing and lack of focus on driving the road. I am the friendly type; however, flirting in traffic in foreign lands KM after KM really doesn’t do it for me. In hot pursuit these guys are and sticking to their motorized manly mission to get my attention.

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As I slam Pandemic’s brakes and skid into anyone official looking, like a sling shot off the manly motorcyclists go, red faced, leaving me laughing with an audience. Anyone official looking, military, police, truck drivers, old, religious, or female make the best audiences. The great news here is, this is Pakistan and people work together in groups and these official folks are everywhere. Also, the Pakistani sense of humor is expansive and fun. Therefore, these security filled official audiences’ welcome magic bicycles and also find this ‘fling the flirt’ tactic as entertaining as I do.

So who wants to be a cyclist?

Drinking Warm Smiles While Pedaling In Pakistan

As I drift off to sleep I peer through the door of my little tent at the burning fires high on the Himalaya hills of the Hunza valley of Pakistan, the echoes of drums resonate on the hill side as the final day of the national celebration comes to a close.  It is the annual celebration of Prince Karim Agah Khan.   Every year around the world on July 11th fire and lights burn in celebration of the day when the prince received his spiritual powers from his grandfather.

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As I close my eyes I ponder which is more beautiful the Himalaya mountains peaks that brighten my eyes and motivate my legs to pedal on or the Pakistani people who have captured my heart. Today, I spent the day with new friends drinking warm smiles and milk tea.  The word friendly doesn’t come close to the warmth of the people I have met since arriving in Pakistan. The Karakorum Highway may be famous around the world for beauty, cycling, mountaineering and trekking however the legendary hospitality of the people is a secret I am grateful to have discovered.

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Throughout these peaceful hills,  the local shop keepers, trekking guides and hotel owners sit hopeful with large welcoming smiles and big hearts that tourists will someday return. Visitors have dwindled in numbers in the last decade keeping the magic of Pakistan hidden deep in the Himalaya hillside.

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With my eyes closed warm in my little tent I smile for dreaming about pedaling the Karakorum highway in Pakistan as a solo female no longer necessary. After pedaling around the world for the last 2 years, 15 countries and 34,000 kilometers I am finally here in the heart of the beautiful dream.  My website skalatitude.com which shares travel stories and world cycling resources is defined as when nature and humans are living in harmony there is magic and beauty everywhere.  Northern Pakistan, the Karakorum Highway and the Hunza valley are the finest example and my vote for a must see on the list of travelers dreams.

Paris Hilton Arrives In Pakistan With A Magic Bicycle

As I climb out of the desert and venture past the final community in China I begin to climb into the Kunjerab Pass.  An expensive dark Chinese’s SUV arrives. I am immigration, it is Chinese law, no cycling the border crossing in China, you must take bus to Sost, Pakistan. No you are kidding, really?  I am so lost, thank you for stopping and helping me I say with a devilish grin. My pedaling soul REALLY wants to pedal over the 5400 meter pass and silly me may have known that China wouldn’t let me and may of tried pedaling down the road into the mountains anyway.

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I board the bus into Pakistan with Pandemic The Magic Bicycle tied to the top .  However, the  Pakistani men on the bus with me are ridiculously friendly and nice as a bus load of people I just met can be.  We share chapatti bread, I am invited to stay for a visit on route, one man puts his wife on the phone for a chat and we discuss a few no go regions for magic bicycles.

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Over the pass I go by bus, drooling out the windows at the snow filled pass and then descending 85 kilometers down the Karakorum Highway into Pakistan to the immigration area for my Pakistan visa stamp. Being a woman definitely has some bennies in this manly environment.   I haven’t felt such a sea of friendly warm testosterone since my Alaska days, south of the Arctic Circle were the man/women ration is about 10:1.  I am given the only chair in the immigration office in Sost by a man with a great hat, beautiful smiling eyes and gentle demeanor.

As I sit in my chair watching a flowing curtain of beautifully dressed Pakistani men in long traditional tops and baggy pants, I peer up and giggle hard for there is a giant friendly GEO News TV camera looking at me.  I lower my head and hide, laugh and think now this is definitely one unique way to pedal a country.  Off I go from immigration with a new friend, a Geo News camera man who will be taking photos and film for the news in Pakistan.

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Camped a few kilometers from here and was warmly welcomed by a group of truck drivers and university students.  Drank tea with new friends and talked about the mountains for most of the evening…

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Geo news and I will be putting a shout out to everyone but mostly women to come out and pedal with me in Pakistan, together promoting WOW (Women On Wheels), women’s cycling internationally and  locally. Tonight from outside of my little tent I was put on live TV. The irony here is I actually haven’t even had a TV in about 12 years and now apparently I am on the TV.  Paris Hilton in all her pseudo fame glory has arrived among a ridiculously warm welcome to pedal the Karakorum Highway of Pakistan.

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InSANDnity

I’ll get you my pretties…what, huh, what’s that voice, did you hear that Pandemic? Is the desert wind playing tricks on me? Perhaps I have finally done my head in, does looking at too much sand affect mental stability?

What do you think Pandemic? Is talking to a bicycle a bad sign? Pandemic, got any thoughts on this one? What do bicycles actually think about? It has been over half a day without water, the wind is over powering me, desert insects are forming a colorful collage of itch on my drying skin. The sky is blackening as a dust, wind, rain storm sets in, a triple dose of doom for a bicycle, even a magic one. The wind will surely tear my tent. That is, if I actually succeed in putting it up in these blustery conditions.
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My stinging sandpaper eyeballs are blinded by sand. I am standing on the historic southern silk road sideways with my body plunged downward over the back of a loaded bicycle into the throbbing gritty wind. Pandemic The Magic Bicycle is being blasted by the gales into my feathery insubstantial body. I am frozen in the wind and sand, frontward is no longer an option. Shelter, I must take shelter now…
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As the tempest growls deep throughout the unfathomable Taklamakan desert, I take cover under the only thing available in the vastness of the uninhabited barren landscape. Since an insane asylum isn’t available, I chose the only thing around. I am under the road in a cement drainage tunnel. The stinging callous sand twists throughout with a shuddering howl, sand mixed with the occasional cold raindrop whizzes by as I cover my head and eyes in the hood of my black, now dirt brown shirt. I sit inside a projectile ridden sand vacuum in need of a valium and wait.

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Is that Toto? No, it is just another sadistic stinging sand orb swirling with projectile plastic bottles, flying food wrappers and cascading cardboard chunks ignoring me as the ricocheting recyclables bounces off the not padded concrete walls and then my ‘in need of a straight jacket’ head. I wish I could fly like that, I would go get a pizza, umm, pizza. Click, click, click of the cycling sandals, there is no place like a pizza home.

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A sand storm fit for the ‘National Geographic Edition of Morons On Bicycles Crossing The Words Biggest Deserts’ is chasing me, am I in some Jack Nicholson REDRUM remake of the Wizard of OZ? No, but I have been discovered in my stealth under the street not so clever hideout. Extreme paragliding combat desert vampire bugs hover all around me forming a thunder buzz of sorts. I need the Tin Mans outfit to ward off these militant insect extremist. Where are their little helmets? Reckless dive bombing activities in such conditions looks pretty dangerous.

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Will this inexhaustible weather situation bring another windfall sandstorm, dagger sideways rain or the wicked witch of the west? If I am lucky all three, actually meeting the wicked witch of the west would be sanity right about now. I wonder what her favorite food is, something western I suppose, maybe steak? And, I would definitely not tell her about my magic bicycle or my cycling sandals. After all, she has that issue with shoes.

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However, regardless of my frightening mental condition brought on by too much blinding sand, I am grateful to be under the road, and done for the moment holding onto a bicycle like a moron in the middle of sadistic projectile launching sand storm.

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Embraced by the mountains to the south and the impending sand storms of the seemingly every direction, a few hours later I emerge from the tremulous storm tunnel covered in sand, blind and madly in love with thoughts of the lion from the Wizard Of OZ devouring a steak pizza. I continue forward at a slow crawl, pushing in a swirly OZ direction into the windy, sandy madness that the Int’l Psychiatric Association calls crossing The Taklamakan desert, NW China.

One Stone At A Time…Life Goes On In Yushu

As my shoe steps down into the mud, the rain continues, a woman stands up, raises her head from the debris pile and smiles. She looks up, a proud smiling face full of mud freckles and points me to a drier path. She is hard at work removing rubble one stone at a time.
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Her team is passing pieces of concrete from one hand to the next, forming a line of hope and a pathway into the future. Her dirt stained, calloused hand from a year of hard work points towards a long metal pipe salvaged from a collapsed building. It has been fashioned into a bridge over the never ending maze of earthquake debris.

I balance my mud heavy feet one in front of  the other and follow the others over the bridge pipe through Yushu’s town center. It has been a year since the entire town and surrounding infrastructure shook to the ground when a mind boggling, 7.1 magnitude earthquake brought the region to a pause.

As the rain persists, the rubble softens, I continue to climb over a bank of mud, loose concrete and dirt. I proceed along Yushu’s main trail in search of the internet/communications tent. As I join the locals and bounce like a child over dirt puddles, my shoe saturates with wet sticky mud. I pass by blue tent after blue tent of businesses in recovery housed by smiling shops keepers. Fruit and veggie tents, hardware store tents, cell phone tents and restaurant tents line the rock rubble forming a new town of spirited community members embracing progress. A labyrinth of new life, a trail of hope built out earthquake debris. Yushu, an impressive, determined community that is on its way to recovery one stone at a time.

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The Tibetan Camera Carnival

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The Tibetan plateau is as alive as can be

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Dotted with nomads and proud people to see
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The Tibetans are spirited, gorgeous and photogenic
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The  magic is as large as the heart can be
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Camera shy they are not, willing smiles they have got
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Perhaps it is all part of the international plan
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After all the Dalai Lama is their man
A welcoming glow, a handshake, and a shared laugh on the go
It’s a spectacular show
Memories to cherish of a people so grand
That only the altitude brave can stand
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Best be conveyed in the silence of photos
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Any more of this rhyming nonsense a definite no go
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Therefore, I hope you have enjoyed this picture show!