Photos – Page 2 – Solo Female Cycling Around The World

Rohloff or Roll On, You Decide

After about 30,000 uncounted kilometers, Pandemic The Magic bicycle is suffering a cough due to cold, a pesky hiccup of sorts that persists with a hypochondriac’s insistence that something is not quite right.

In 2009, my first magic bicycle tour began when I left SJS cycles in England on a thorn raven touring bicycle. I was equipped with full set of top of the line Shimano components, sexy steel forks and my Rohloff internal gear system. Rolling with full amazement that only a baby’s first steps to bicycle touring can muster, we headed out the bike shop door.

Fast forward, 16 countries, 2 and ½ years and about 30,000km’s later, I am now still on my first bicycle tour and many lessons away from Europe. I am in India having just pedaled the Himalaya. How’s the Rohloff rolling these days?…you might wonder. Wobble I do, on a possible warn bearing, through Kashmir, Manali to Leh highway and Spiti Valley of N. India. My Rohloff began wobbling in the Taklamakan desert, China with increasing retaliation about 4000km ago, instead of rolling with the same steady flawless confidence it has always shown. I contacted Rohloff, a company notorious for great service and support of bicycle tourists like me on the road. True to form, Rohloff responded immediately and will be replacing the bearing and warn sprocket at no cost, a 2 day repair plus shipping.

(Rolling on last year in Mongolia When I met Micheal on a titanium racing bike. He felt the Rohloff was too heavy)

Rohloff’s sturdy internal 14 gear system and longevity means the wheel wobble will not prevent me from pedaling forward through Pakistan, Iran and closer to Europe, where the entire wheel will be shipped back to Germany for the repair at no cost under an amazing lifetime warranty. I have met cycle tourists who over the course of a 4 year continuous bicycle tour had to replace their cassette, derailleur and entire gear unit not once but 3 times. Sure my wheel at the start costs a little more but after all this time of flawless gears while pedaling, one repair at the cost of 38 euros for shipping seems like quite the bargain. Rohloff or Roll on, you decide.

Tips and Magic Bicycle Tricks For Bicycle Touring With Only Two Panniers

As anyone who has read Roll’in With My Hommies, How To Bicycle Tour Anywhere With Only 2 Panniers knows, Pandemic The Magic Bicycle is a close personnel friend of Houdini’s. Pandemic The Magic Bicycle ran into Houdini at the Spokes Bar for a talk about bicycle touring anywhere with only 2 panniers.

Pandemic The Magic Bicycle:

So Houdini, you are into bondage, are you an S and M freak or something? What’s with all the straps you got on the outside of your back rack?

Houdini:

Take it easy Pandemic, I only got into bondage because I was afraid of being too weighted down with unnecessary equipment. By the way, I love your rohloff equipped Thorn Raven…Oh la la. And, like your 2 pannier bicycle touring set up, my escape artist act has been spoken of as a very efficient use of space… of course, you can forgo a bulky cook set and put an MSR int’l whisper lite stove inside one large pot. You just have to pick the right pot. MSR Pot or cheap pot like the one you might already have is a great use of pannier space. Please don’t tell anyone Pandemic but I do get off on back rack bondage. Thanks for letting me know that your sea to summit light dry sack tore very easy, I agree those light weight Ortlieb dry bags are a lot tougher.

Pandemic the Magic Bicycle:

Houdini we have known each other since 2009, you and we have stuck together through continuous bicycle touring in 18 countries. Can I talk to you about some personnel stuff, I been having some issues….with change. It’s hard to talk about because it has happens quite a bit. My Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires keep getting changed from front to back due to uneven wear. On the bright side, I have cycled/boat/cycled the same Schwalbe tires from N. Oz to the Turkey/Iran border. Punctures? Hardly any, unlike you Houdini I don’t mess with that kind of necessary bondage. Funny enough, I have only used one small patch kit, although, I did have to replace the glue twice. Yo, Houdini, did you know that glue evaporates inside panniers. What’s up with that, did you have something to do with it?

Houdini:

Whatever Pandemic, how’s your rohloff doing? What makes you think you are magic anyway, you got a screw loose or something?

Pandemic the Magic Bicycle:

Stay inside the box will y’ah. Screw loose? N’ah man, I have only snapped one rack bolt in all this time, that’s why I carry only a small tools and spares bag and no extra bicycle parts. When the bolt snapped, I stole a bolt off of a bottle cage and repaired the back rack until I could buy the right bolt. I also have one handmade allen key multi-tool and one rohloff/pedal wrench. My hardly used and not missed leatherman multi-tool used to live in a small pannier under the saddle, a brooks B-17 standard, women’s. This was taken so I no longer want any small panniers bags on the exterior of my frame. Thanks to a puzzling contortionist packing technique that I sure you can understand Houdini, bicycle touring anywhere with only 2 panniers is definitely possible.

Houdini:

Pop a wheely Pandemic and stay in touch as you continue pedaling to Capetown. You are in Cyprus aren’t you? Which route will you take?

Pandemic The Magic:

Excuse me for a minute, I am not feeling well; my logistics just puked on my air sickness. The ferry boats to Egypt from Cyprus and EU to Egypt have been cancelled. They still run, summer only to Israel. Due to airsickness, flying is not an option. Syria visa? Pedal/Boat/Pedal to Morocco? I haven’t decided yet, for now, I’m just wait’in on a man.

Man In The Mirror…How To Turn Illusions Into Realities and Start a Bicycle Tour

Photo Credit London To Kathmandu By Bicycle

Illusion: Bicycle Tourists must be super fit

It is true that a sustained level of daily activity such as bicycle touring does do some good for cardiovascular health, however, some bicycle tourists lack or have lost their upper and core body strength.

I no longer have my wood chopping arms or a natural six pack tummy acquired not from a gym but from hours of chopping wood and walking in the snow back in my prior life in Alaska.

Reality: It is possible to gain some weight while

bicycle touring

When the world over says that I must be super fit I typically say ‘Fit? Fit for the mental hospital and that’s about it’, or ‘no man, I am just trying to stay out of jail’. I have met people who have grown bellies from touring and others who have trimmed done their waist lines. Like everything in life, nutrition and what is available to eat on tour are big factors.

Illusion: You must start with a small bicycle tour and work up to a longer tour

I and a few other men and WOW (Women On Wheels) had zero cycling experience prior to a world tour. Granted when I left the bicycle shop in England my throbbing neck and creaking Achilles tendons might have been an issue through Wales to Ireland if I hadn’t been grinning so hard over the handle bars of finally starting my long dreamed of adventure. 18 countries later, I am still grinning and learning as I go.

Reality: You do not need prior experience, just a sense of adventure and a willingness to try

Camping and sleeping for free cuts back on costs and I have spent many a day spending nothing more then $2-4 (USD) on food. Biciclown who has been on the road since 2004 usually spends less then 6 (EU) no matter where he is touring. Travelling Two is a great website highlighting all sorts of folks that have toured continents such as Africa and S. America for 10,000 (EU) for a couple’s tour. World Biking is another huge resource for cycle tourists, these two have been touring since 2006 on a low budget. Touring for cheap ($7usd a day) in SE Asia is very popular.

Illusion: Bicycle Touring is very expensive

The Karakorum Highway, Pakistan ($4usd a day) is my favorite place for glaciers that touch the pedals, beautiful free camping and wonderful people. Pakistan is even cheaper than India ($6usd a day). Warmshowers is a website dedicated to finding free warm showers for cyclists; it’s full of bicycle touring on the cheap supporters. Coughsurfing is another resource for meeting locals, sleeping for free and budget bicycle touring. Camping and sleeping for free inside can be pretty easy, the world over seems to understand bicycle touring.

Illusion: Girly Girl Gear For Guys Too

is too expensive, you can’t afford it

Many people get off the bus and get a $100 bicycle at a local market and pedal on. Central, SE Asia and India are great for that. I have seen backpacks strapped to pieces of wood for 1000’s of KMS and handmade panniers that have gone the distance. Couples touring is less costly then solo touring but even than 3-8 USD is less then you might spend on a mug of beer or coffee back home. An expensive bicycle might insure less time spent on repairs but the memories acquired and the smiles of a dream in action will surely curb some of the worries of saving cash and putting off the dream.

Reality: Locals have been pedaling up mountains on old one speed bicycles wearing nothing but flip flops for a very long time

If someone decided to write a bongs and bicycles article I am fairly certain they would find a contributor. Tobacco can be found in some panniers and there are plenty of WOW (women on wheels) and men who enjoy a good drink. Dervla Murphy and Helen Lloyd who counted miles and beers throughout Africa come to mind.

Reality: Bicycle Tourists come in all sizes and personality types, say hello to one today!

Next month’s newsletter is in the works. I would love to hear about your favorite article of outdoor gear and why. Please say hello at skalatitude@gmail.com, FB or Twitter

Ssshhhh, I Can’t Hear You…Why I Love My MSR Whisper Lite Stove

The MSR int’l whisper lite might lack the glimmer of a low simmer but boil it will in a record breaking spill

No need to buy the primus for surely all those fuel cartridges will cause an international fuss

Up in flames she went due to my unattended head, I screwed the cap on wrong, for I must have been thinking about a bong

To no avail, she recovered from my fail and she still burns great even if you’ve cycled all day and it’s getting late

Pasta on demand in a quick boiling camp pan, I am stumped for a better nutritional plan

High altitude passes and the Gobi desert she has gone and even then this stove hasn’t gone wrong

Her silent ways have been proven with every cent well spent even packed tight into a pannier you won’t find a dent

What’s that you say? You want one today but sssssh I can’t hear you. For the whisper lite is always right even if the operator is fresh from a rain soaked bicycle touring night

Special note: Just so you know, I am unsponsored by MSR and enjoy writing about things that have proven to work from almost 3 years of continuous bicycle touring through 18 countries. However, the bicycle ambulance project is on my mind. If you shop at amazon.com through this website it doesn’t cost you anything extra and I receive a small amount, about 1% of the sale. The money will go towards the purchase of a bicycle ambulance and will be given to a community in Namibia when I arrive by bicycle. The profits from the Be The Adventure T-shirts also go towards the bicycle ambulance project. If you shop at amazon.com anyway, a big thanks to you for remembering to shop through the amazon.com icon on the right sidebar.

Roll’in With My Homies…How To Bicycle Tour With Only Two Panniers

I have been asked several times how I got bicycle touring gear and a camping kit into 2 Ortlieb panniers and no handlebar bag instead of the typical 4-5 pannier set up. The answer is Houdini is a close personnel friend of Pandemic The Magic bicycle, just kidding. Here are 5 myths debunked about lightweight 4 season bicycle touring.

Myth 1 You must not be camping

I camp and only sleep inside in big cities when it’s cheap and/or makes sense. My camping kit for the last few years of continuous touring consists of…

Tent/Home

I had an amazing Vaude Hogan Ultra light which was too hot for the tropics of SE Asia until I lost the poles. A small patchable hole encouraged me to purchase a new tent.

Tent 2, Big Agnes Fly Creek 1. This tent was too small and not tough enough. The mesh ripped almost immediately and the zipper gave out after only 2 months. Things kept failing out of the pocket and hitting me in the head and I wouldn’t describe this free standing tent as free standing.

Tent 3, It’s necessary to have a tent without holes for poisonous bugs up ahead in Africa therefore Tent 3 is on it’s way. Tent 2 I will cut and use as a double ground cloth. Thanks to a online x-mas sale plus coupon I purchased the Mountain Hardwear skyledge 2.1 for $196. Happy New Years and Gears to me!

MSR whisper light int’l stove, which after some cleaning of the fuel pump has been unstoppable at altitude and with use of various fuels in the Middle East, great in all conditions so far.

Franscesco from Italy on the Manali to Leh Highway, Himalayan Mtns., N. India

Cook Pot (unknown brand) , a plastic container from China with a sealable lid that serves as a sauce holder, take-away container and coffee cup. I often cook lunch at breakfast time and store it in the container.

Fork, spoon, chopsticks, knife. I have two knives, a buck knife and an X-L REDRUM type knife that I found on the road in Malaysia. It’s great for cutting watermelons and heads (just kidding).

Sleeping Pad REI ¾ inflatable, bought off of another bicycle tourist who was done camping in N. India. Until then, I had an $8 blue foam mat that I replaced on route, which I miss.

Sleeping Bag Mountain Hardwear 3 season. It is a warm, wide women’s bag and there’s enough room inside for me to curl up.

Water bag, Ortlieb 20L it makes a great hot shower and water carrier for expedition type areas. Others have reported they are easy to puncture and that the MSR water bags are tougher but mine is holding up fine.

Dervla Murphy, Ireland To India

Myth 2. You must never change your clothes

Cycling Shirts

Call me a girly girl here but I usually carry 8 bohemian cotton shirts, long and short sleeved purchased cheap on route, shorts, a couple of tank tops, 5 multi-functional buffs for my shaggy locks and 6 pairs of socks because my only shoes are Shimano cycling sandals given to me in Malaysia.

Be The Adventure Panties

Houdini loves my ‘be the adventure panties’, so I remember to always pack these. I have a fake arct’rex fleece jacket, marmot precip jacket, 3 pairs of thin gloves and faux leather over-mittens that I made for $.50 because my Gortex over-mitts were stolen.

Thermals

A full set of thermals (brand unknown), pants, 1 short and 2 long sleeve synthetic tops which are all perfect for rain, snow and mtns . In the rain, I pedal in my Gortex ski pants that I have had for a decade. They are too heavy for warmer rain but are amazing to warm up fast in wet cold temperatures. Travelers since the beginning of time have worn hats so I have 3+ of those as well. I usually find them on the road and wash and wear them.

Loretta Henderson (me) in Tibet, China

Myth 3 You must not have a laptop

Asus Eee PC

On a bad day, writing until I laugh makes me feel better, therefore, I carry an Asus Eee PC ($300usd) purchased in Thailand which I named Prozac. I also carry a Nikon L120 camera, 3 mp3 players, a cell phone that I don’t use and all the electrical cords. I have a tool bag full of spare bolts and tools that I have found on the roads. I pick up anything metal that might help a magic bicycle or Houdini.

Myth 4 You must be on a short bicycle tour

I have been on the road since 2009, 18 countries and a not counted number of KM’s. Bicycle computers are great but too easy to lose. The first six months I had the traditional set up of 4 panniers. I cycled for 3 months with one front pannier completely empty. This bothered my brain while pedaling because I was no longer balanced literarily. I send my water purifier home which was never used and never since been missed, called Houdini and had him pack the back 2 panniers. I added a light Ortlieb dry bag that I carry inside a pannier. It can expand and be attached to the back rack to hold a week or more worth of food for expedition areas.

(the front bag is from a backpack I found on the road, it was an experiment that didn’t last long)

Myth 5 You are a midget bicycle tourist

Ok, this might not be a myth. At 5 foot 1 and ¾ inches, I have never been the biggest kid in the class. I met a tall cyclist who was very weight conscious. He looked at my fit for Houdini set up and said ‘yeah that works because your clothes are smaller and you eat less than me’. This myth might be the secret of how Houdini got out of that box and Pandemic The Magic Bicycle and other WOW(women on wheels) and men can bicycle tour anywhere with only 2 panniers.

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Tips and Magic Tricks For Bicycle Touring With Only 2 Panniers

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Dear Rohloff

Dear Rohloff,

Please take care of my hubby Mr. Rohloff Wheel. He has been on quite a voyage and due to the fact that he is overweight and too large in certain areas, I was unable to ship him with his tube or tire. The postal service said NO, however an outlandish 20-30 day trial separation was suggested.

I walked across the border here in Turkey Cyprus to Greece Cyprus and found a shipping service that said yes he could go on a 3 day express holiday to Germany but only if he lost some weight and trimmed down his perimeter. I hope he arrives safely to you for his rehabilitation. I really appreciate your warranty hospital services for my hubby Rohloff, he has been unstable for quite some time. He definitely has got some issues that sparked our trial separation. His issues are:

Wheel wobble, a gap between the sprocket and hub area, possible bearing
The plastic cable cover that attaches to the wires for shifting that lead out of the hub has worn free
If possible at no cost, I would love the other type/size of sprocket put on. I would like to have 3 more gears on the hills. It was set too high at Thorn at purchase because I did not truly understand at the time what I was being asked. I had never cycled before. This would also get me out of gear 7 which is my present pedaling gear and the one that wears the hardest over time. The ideal gear is 10 and I would love to pedal in gear 10 to take it easy on my hubby and continue pedaling the world.
Also, if it’s ok, I will buy and ship you one tire and if it is ok you could use that to protect the wheel on the way back. The German postal system is a lot better than here so I think my hubby Rohloff’s overweight and length issues will not be of concern. Is that OK?

Thanks, my hubby’s stability has been deteriorating for quite some time and negatively affecting our relationship. I look forward to my hubby Rohloff’s return in an improved state so we can reconcile and continue to pedal together.

Signed,

The old ball and chain @skalatitude.com

Loretta Henderson (t-shirt size women’s S)

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Pakistani My fanny

Chugga chugga choo choo….the train plugs along at the speed of a bicycle through Baluchistan province, Pakistan. A part of the world in which blending in and passing by unnoticed is a really good idea. What the hell am I doing in this desert? I am thoroughly informed by everyone, guest house owners, other over-landers and military police, that cycling the road from Pakistan into Iran is not possible but is passable in a military convoy with mandatory armed escorts. Convoys at times stop and wait for hours or nights for an organized safe passing of the area. The advice by all is to keep a low profile, “take the train, avoid confrontations with the military and the convoys, you will get there easier, safer and faster”

Long Sleeve Shirt from “The Cycle Tourists That Don’t Meet Terrorists Clothing Line”, $6USD, available at the tailor next to the Regal Internet Inn in Lahore Pakistan

I figure in order to prepare for such a stealth occasion, that new concealment clothes are in order. I went to visit a tailor, a man who studied clothing design in Toronto and London, then returned home to open a men’s tailoring shop in Pakistan. He is a funny, highly dramatic, artistic type who loves designing clothes. We chat about shirts for some time and come up with the perfect cycling shirt. The “cycle tourists that don’t meet terrorists” clothing line for women cyclists in Baluchistan, an up and coming market, I am sure of it or at least Pandemic The Magic Bicycle and I think so.

Sharif, a men’s tailor seems delighted with the girly girl gear challenge. He sent me out shopping for material with his trusted man Oman. I pick out brown cotton, brown being my all time favorite color because, it is far easier to keep clean outdoors if you just dress the color of dirt to begin with. So what should we wear for bicycle touring in Muslim countries?

Girly Girl Gear For Cycling In Muslim Countries

Pakistani Your Fanny Cover that bum with a long shirt, either a man’s shirt or any xxx-L shirt will do. Kind of like maternity wear even though you may not be pregnant.

Cleavage…How Low Can You Go- Similar to voluminous bosoms popping out in the western world, ankles in Muslim countries are considered to be oh la la sexy, sort of like ankle cleavage. Keep the shorts and ¾ length pants tucked away in the back of the drawer. Adorning yourself with long pants that cover your ankles is a legal must in Iran and highly suggested for Pakistan and recommended for India Kashmir, Muslim Indonesia and Malaysia.

Pro-tip: Try not to distract other drivers with your sexy ankles because causing motorcycle collisions while cycling can be hazardous.

Head Bang’in In Your Headscarf-Covering your head is legally necessary in Iran and highly recommended in many areas of Pakistan. I would of never imagined that pedaling in Muslim countries listening to the Beastie Boys rapping on full volume while wearing a headscarf could be so much fun. Also, choosing cycling routes in cooler climates such as high mountains helps keep me to a sane temperature while cycling in a headscarf.

Pro-tip: listening to the Beastie Boys while cycling in the summertime with a winter scarf wrapped around your head can be fun

FOR GUYS

3 piece suit, cufflinks, bowtie and a top hat. Just kidding, however, men should dress conservatively. The most respectful way to dress is to wear long or ¾ length shorts instead of daisy duke short ones, cover the spandex and wear t-shirt. The traditional shalwar kamiz worn locally is also appropriate and helps you blend in. However, whatever you normally wear is most likely acceptable as well.

Special note: The internet firewall here has my website and others sites blocked. Therefore communication will be limited. I used a special trick to check my e-mail, post this, and update FB and Twitter. I am not sure how many more tricks I have up my sleeve. Thanks for understanding, check back frequently for new news.

Top 5 Reasons Rohloff Makes The Perfect Hubby

My Rohloff, my German internal gear hub system, love of my life, I take thee for better or for worst, in sickness and in health until death do we part, my friend, my companion and love of my life. I lawfully wed thee in front of the cycling community… You may now kiss your hubby Rohloff.

Isn’t he cute? I always have loved red hair

Top 5 Reasons Rohloff Makes The Perfect Hubby

Number 5. No Skid Marks On The Derailleur You never have to clean skid marks off the derailleur. Actually Rohloff is a S and M freak, after all he is German (bad joke). He prefers to wear metal underwear especially if it is a thon. He will however settle for wearing a thorn instead at most occasions. His internal gear system is encased in a strong metal casing so gumming up the derailleur is never an issue.

Number 4. Low Maintenance. I have been in this exclusive relationship for 2 and ½ years. A long time for a relationship that began online. It doesn’t take much to keep my mail order hubby happy. The secret? Cook him up a little “oil de la oily” for dinner every 5000-10000km and you are good to go. (the rohloff hub requires an oil change every 5,000km)

Number 3. Always A Great Ride. Smooth, gentle moves every night of the week, Oh la la, need I say more. 16 countries and 30,000 km later. Rohloff has still got it. (lifetime guarantee)

Number 2. Watch Bicycle Porn Rohloff’s idea of a great time on a Saturday night is watching a thrasher movie featuring a derailleur that has lost its gear on the western side of the middle of nowhere. Out in the Gobi desert, Karakorum Mountains or the jungles of Borneo, my hubby Rohloff has stood loyal and faithful throughout all of the above.

Number 1. Your Sugar Mama Will Be Jealous. Ok, so Rohloff comes with a high price and you might need to get another sugar mama to buy one of these, however, over time the cost will make up for itself with an unending, committed happiness. And like an expensive wedding ring, you will look at it, feel it’s beauty and smile knowing that this one actually does come with a lifetime warranty.

For more gear news see Girly Girl Gear For Guys Too

We Want Freedom. An Interview With Cindy Travis

“We want freedom, we want justice, long like the Dali Llama, we want freedom, no more repression….”. The echo is powerful; the women’s voice is horse from shouting from the heart, a place that only someone who truly knows can find.

As the Free Tibet march progresses downward from the mountain top, I find myself overwhelmed and chatting to Cindy Travis, a retired bicycle tourist and veteran sister of the road. Cindy saw the world for 8 years from the saddle. I had a chance to ask Cindy if she missed bicycle touring. “Sometimes” she said loudly over the intense energy of the Free Tibet March taking place in Mcleod Ganj, India, home of the Dali llama.

What about life on the bike, do you miss? “The wind on my cheeks”, she hollers as the group of 100’s, make their way past the Tibetan government in exile compound. Do you still have your bicycle? I wondered. “Nope, she smiles, sold that one week after the divorce papers were signed”, the air of freedom permeates throughout the hills as we carry on forward amongst a chorus of “We want freedom…no more repression…”.

What has 8 years of bicycle touring taught Cindy? Cindy’s Buddhist philosophy shines as she speaks about attachment, “…material possessions don’t mean a whole lot anymore although I do love my new book collection”. Cindy pedaled the world for 8 years with 2 books, her collection now rounds out at about 62. Cindy explains what most of us bicycle travelers have learned as well, “…while bicycle touring around the world I was more often than not embraced with overwhelming kindness, I just want to give back now”. Cindy works as a volunteer geologist for the Tibetan government in exile, is writing another book, is mentoring 2 Tibetan youth, meditates daily, walks 5-10km a day and was recently blessed by the Dali Llama. I someday hope to find such peace and happiness in my bicycle touring retirement.

Tibet Crisis, self immolation of monks, a candle light march

Special note: 7 monks in the last few weeks have self immolated, setting themselves on fire in monasteries’ throughout Tibet. The Tibetan people have entered a crisis period and there are weekly marches and candle light vigils in Mcleod Ganj and throughout India to raise awareness of the ongoing human rights violations of the Tibetan people in China.