Rehab is For Quitters…Why You Should Winter Cycle Tour in Patagonia

Ah fuckity” I say out loud into the frosty Patagonian air.

My gortex gloved hands grasp the frigid wobbling handlebars. The mighty force of the gale triumphs over my futile attempts to hold the handlebars from wobbling. The winds velocity slams me in the forehead like a hindi dot. My mind wonders to all things warm. Thoughts of spicy Indian dahl and chicken tikka massala pass the time as the Indigo Girls song ‘…Let’s Make Peace Tonight’ blasts into my MP3 player. The brittle plastic headphones are tucked into my warm ears under my fleece head wrap.

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Ah fuckity…this wind tunnel must lead to the looney bin!”

I begin talking to myself and dismount from Pandemic The Gale Force Magic Bicycle. My leg which has done more walking then cycling in the last 100km, flings high off the bike into the wind. My keene sandal and neoprene sock covered foot lands on the rocky dirt road somewhere near C. Sombrero, Terra Del Fuego, Patagonia. To test today’s wind speed, I tilt my head back and spit into the now sideways wind, hawking loogies for distance is my new hobby.

She shoots, she SCORES” I shout, my spit ball clears the two lane highway.

My eyes redden and tear from the cold wind. The puddles appear blurry, they are frozen over with ice and loogies. My cycling spirit flourishes as I lean down and continue to walk forward like a junkie looking for a easy fix.

Donde es uno hospitale mentalite? Where is a mental hospital? Ah rehab is for quitters!..I am now losing the other ½ of my mind in 2 languages”

I say to myself as I push for the afternoon in a wind storm fit for the ‘Nationa1 Geographic Edition of Morons Pushing Bicycles in the Worlds Windiest Places’. I call off the quest at 4:30 after 46km, 3- two lane loogies, 1- shoulder penalty loogie and 11- ¾ lane loogies to camp under the road at the first available form of shelter, a culvert.

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Where did it all go so wrong? There has always been a fine line between a bicycle tourist and hobboist” I reason, as I unroll my gorgeous helliberg tent. Surprisingly, it fits perfectly inside the dirty culvert.

Who knew?..It IS named the (helliberg) Jannu…ah fuckity…I am a poet and I didn’t even know it. A Kryptonite cockail…now that would help the cycling…This is where a junkie would sleep, I talk to myself too much. Ah, conversations with my self about talking to myself is definitely a side effect from winter cycle touring in Patagonia…rehab is for quitters…” I babble on, laugh and look around at the crack in the ice on the ground.

UPDATE:WOW (Women On Wheels) Wall
I just finished my first solo tour across the United States! I found this blog before setting out and thought of it often during my tour. Ladies- We can soar like birds, traveling the world on our bicycle, embracing our independence, and making our lives our own. I’m so proud of all of us! Pedal on!” Heather Jones 

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Wintertime Bicycle Touring, Wise or Wacko?

If I ever get on a sailboat like that again for 6 weeks with three smelly boys to cross the Atlantic ocean please feel free to hit me over the head with a large hammer”

I say while laughing out loud with a huge smirk at the Sao Luis, Brazil immigration official. Perspiration drips from my upper lip. Cycling in 100 degree humidity has gotten the best of my sweat glands.

His English is strong. His sense of humor is not. His wide bronzed left hand holds my faded blue passport. His sweaty right hand holds my country visa entry stamp.

So sorry misses, but I cannot stamp you into Brazil because you have already cycled 900km into Sao Luis, where is the sailboat, why didn’t you stamp in when you got here?” He rightfully questions, why I am on a bicycle and not a boat.

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( I am such a girl sometimes. My new Helliberg Jannu matches Pandemic)

The boat of boob-heads came here illegally, I didn’t know when I volunteered to crew on the captain’s boat. A remarkably offensive man who I have nick named Captain Banana Hammock after his squeevey red speedo. Ah speedo my libido one final time, I chuckle to myself while realizing perhaps the official doesn’t need to know the whole ‘I bailed off the boat’ story. Or, my belly aching that I will not be getting a valid visa or an extension or be able to cycle across South America via the amazon of Brazil.

The sailboat is not here Sir,, they have left Brazil, what should I do?” I ask with a time rich, cash poor traveler’s willingness to be flexible.

Life is what happens when you are busy making other plans I think to myself knowing this situation is either going to take time or money. The two great riches of slow bicycle travel.

Go to the border, go be illegal and take care of it then. You have 12 days” The official utters. The damp pocket of his lime green cotton shirt hangs forward. His silver immigration badge dangles. It is shimmering in the glow of the humid rain season air.

Brazil, a massive country is bordered by about a quazillion countries. North to French Guyanna is expensive, the Bolivian Andes my first choice is 12+ days of non-scheduled boat travel and a week of pedaling. South to Argentina is a 3 1/2 day bus journey, buses have never been my chosen method of forward travel. My only real goal is to see the Andes and cycle across my final continents…finish this full-time world cycling this.

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(memories…when riding in humidity was so much more fun)

Thank you sir, maybe I will go be illegal” I smile, the irony not missed about how there are illegal immigrants all over the world and here I am ‘illegal’ in Brazil. I leave the stuffy building and head towards making a decision…

Ok there is no bad weather for cycling. If the weather is gonn’a be extreme, as in boiling in Brazil, it might as well be beautiful. This is just a false start in South America, that all it is. I will bus to the Iguazu Falls border and cycle to Uruguay to pick up gear and start again at the bottom of the continent. I know it’s winter in the southern hemisphere that close to Antarctica but f##ck it that is what I am gonn’a do, I just need the right gear and a little luck with sponsors.

(Absolutely humbled by Iguazu Falls, Argentina. Back to the bike. Iguazu Falls to Montevideo, Uruguay to pick up gear. Thanks sponsors, my family and all those involved with int’l shipping for sending me the gear)

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Winter Bicycle Touring Gear List
Feet:
Neo villager overboots (Amazon.com cost $60 USD
Fleece lined Neoprene socks (E-bay $10 USD)
Baffin synthentic booties (Amazon $30 USD)
Keene sandals ($80 USD)

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(Neoprene socks inside these sandals. Neos Over shoes over top when it gets slushy)
Hands:
Overmitts (cost $30 USD, not label)
Fleece mitts (no name cost $6 USD)
Fingerless “magic gloves” (no name cost $1 USD)

Legs:
Gortex pants (15 years old, cost $99 USD)
Wool thermal bottom (icebreakers-sponsor)
Prana pants ($100 and worth every penny)
Ex-offcio ¾ length Capris
Ex-officio Nomad shorts

Upper Body and Head:
Wool thermal zip tee top (icebreaker-sponsor)
Nano puff patagonia jacket ($160 USD ½ price online clearance)
Rain shadow patagonia jacket ($100 USD E-Bay)
Synthetic tank-top (3 USD in Zambia)
Icebreaker short sleeve wool t-shirt (second hand)
3 Buffs (One arctic fleece and 2 synthentic, $20-30 USD purchased in Namibia)

Sleeping Bag:(sponsor) Jacks R Better High Sierra Sniveller down quilt. It is a warmer bag than my present 3 season mountain hardware bag which is approx. 950 sleeps old)
Mat:(Thermarest X-therm, it is more quipped for consistent sleeping on snow. A replacement of my 3 season $38 USD no-name mat from South Africa)
Tent: Helliberg Jannu (sponsored) (4 season mountaineering tent)
Eating:
Koveo Extreme Stove with fuel compressed gas fuel cannister (I find it to be more reliable than my MSR int’l multi-fuel. I am sleeping with the fuel canister to keep it warm)

30 x-L Seal-Line dry bag (sponsor). Winter touring takes about twice as much food. I’ll also be eating sweetened vegetable shortening by the spoonful. A trick for the skinny that I used while living in Alaska for 9 years.
PandemicThe Magic Bicycle (enough said)

A Snowball’s Chance In Hell…How To Prepare For A Winter Bicycle Tour

Some would say that there isn’t a snowball’s chance in hell that they would undertake a winter bicycle tour but for WOW(women on wheels) member Ellen Moseman sees it differently.  Ellen, an English teacher living in China took time away from her preparations for her upcoming winter bicycle tour of central Asia and the Pamir Mountains to answer a few questions for us all about winter bicycle touring.
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Are you expecting snow? What kind of tires do you have?
Ellen is expecting blizzards; she has equipped her Soma Saga bicycle with Schwalbe Black Shark folding MTB tires ordered from America and shipped to China. She will also be ready with a stick on board to clear out the snow and ice from between the tires and mudguards and a lightweight tarp to cover her bicycle from the harsh elements while camping.  For gloves, she will wear a pair Pearl Uzumi with mittens over top,  she wishes she had lobster claw gloves but they are too spendy so she is going with what she has got. For more tips on budgeting for your outdoor adventure see No Money, No Honey.
 
How much money does a winter bicycle tour cost?
 
On past tours throughout China, Ellen budget ranges about $120 USD a month. She is documenting nomads and religion through a photography project. As a solo female bicycle tourist she is often invited to camp with local families. Emily’s photography work can be found on her excellent website, 2wheels4girls.com. At $4USD a day, with her camera and keen eye for beauty Ellen hopes to be on the road for about 6 months concentrating on the nomadic areas of Kazakhstan.
 
What items did you add to the panniers, specifically for winter bicycle touring? 
  •  one set 100% merino wool thermals top and bottom
  • one set synthetic thermals top and bottom
  • Stove, MSR whisper lite international bought new for this trip because her alcohol stove doesn’t burn well in colder climates
  • Full extra set of clothes stored in a dry bag to warm up quickly and prevent hypothermia  in wet weather conditions
  • A silk liner for her winter sleeping bag
  • Gortex hiking boots
  • 2 merino wool hats
  • Merino wool balaclava
  • 2 extra pairs of thick outdoor trekking pants
  • Tent, a cheap Chinese made tent that she curses at. Ellen hopes to purchase the storm proof Vaude Hogan Ultralight Argon after selling some photographs of her trip
 What does this winter adventurer dream of doing next?
 
Ellen has heard rumors that sometimes the NW passage freezes over enough that you could pedal across the frozen ice but she did mention to not tell her fiancé.
 

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