New Years and New Gears…Top 3 Things to be Grateful For This Year

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Number 3  Inviting 

Ballerinas to Texas Rodeos

 
As I pedaled through Pakistan and Iran dressed like a ballerina at a Texas rodeo breaking all culturally appropriate rules just by breathing, I owe 100’s of thank-you’s  to everyone on route for the kindness, encouragement and wonderful camping spots, and meals shared.  Most of all thank you for your open mindedness and overlooking my oddness for a lone woman cycling in these areas is about as odd as a ballerina at a Texas rodeo.

Number 2 Pandemic The Magic Bicycle
 
Now, if you had asked me when I was young what the most significant relationship I would have at this age, I would of never imagined it would be with a magic bicycle. But here I am a solo female cycling around the world since 2009 with Pandemic The Magic Bicycle, the love of my life.  Other then a brief affair with Dansey and my recent marriage to my hubby Rohloff it has always been Pandemic.  Thanks Pandemic for rolling with me this year.
 
 
Number 1 Tackling The Lonesome BluesHappy New Year, 3 people on Bicycles 2914
 
Thank you to all of you for the comments, FB and Twitter messages.  My writing style has been described by some as unique; others have said I am crazy.  Well, every day is a festival if you are already crazy.  Maybe, I just like festivals. However, I am lacking company on the road most days and on a bad day, I write until I laugh and that makes me feel better. So, thank you to all of you because without your encouragement to keep sharing I might have lost my mind or at least the other half while I was bicycle touring solo around the world. I also may have found alternative less healthy methods of tackling the lonesome blues. Thank You to YOU and Happy New Years and New Gears everyone!

Bicycles and Brie…Why You Will Love Cycle Touring In France

Wow (woman on wheels) participant Susan Minnich returned from her second bicycle tour in France recently. Suzecyling routes cover the Atlantic to the Mediterranean and the Pyrenees mtn. regions of France. I caught up with Susan through an e-mail Q and A. Here is what Susan had to say about cycling in France.

 
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Cycle touring is not that popular where you are from, how did you get into cycle touring?

In the 1970s I spent quite a bit of time backpacking and cross country skiing in the mountains of the US and Canada. During the same period, I commuted to work on my beloved Fuji 10- speed and rode for fun on weekends. Even then I so enjoyed cycling and bike touring seemed like a good, tempting idea to me…30 years happened next, but how time disappears like that I really can’t explain. Got married, left NYC, built a solar house in the woods and a big garden…and never had both time and money to travel, by any kind of transportation. 
 
My job now provides vacation time. The first two years I stayed home to work in the garden and on our still-not-really-finished house, hike in my nearby woods and hills and enjoy life here. But a year later something gave way. I had long since given my Fuji bicycle to a friend’s child and I missed it.  I walked into my local outdoor store and bought a bike. I never, ever spend $500 or so that fast. Fell immediately back in love with moving myself around on two wheels. That was in September 2007, with almost no riding weather left here. The next year I went on my first tour.
 
What do you love about France?

…A lot of people ride bikes there. I love being immersed in such a rich and old culture, one that has in many ways informed the culture in the US, but that remains so uniquely different. In the US, the operating ethic is new, new, new, more, more more, bigger, bigger, bigger. Older things, buildings, roads, communities, are very typically destroyed to make way for the new. In France, human culture has written itself, embedded itself on and in the landscape in an intrinsic, respectful way that we don’t see here…  You don’t need to ride great distances to experience changes…Every valley or mountain peak brings something different. Cycling is also respected there, and so many people have ridden a bike. Usually cars give you a good amount of space, and I’ve never been hassled.
france scenery
 
 
Was France your first tour location?

My first bike tour was in September 2008 when I  rode  around Lake Champlain, a very large lake in Vermont, USA and Canada, a bit north of where I live. My husband had foot surgery and it turned out his recovery took longer than anticipated. So I went solo.  My memory is that it was about 300 miles, pretty flat, mostly.
 
Do people at work understand your passion for touring?

Not at all. People are mostly supportive and intrigued but I think my cycle touring is generally considered a bit eccentric, or whacky, especially so because I tour solo. Several colleagues do quite a lot of bike touring, but always in supported tours,  and that’s true even of the serious cyclists, who are no doubt much stronger riders than I am.   They come closest to understanding, but they don’t get it why I would ride carrying my own gear, much less solo … and certainly not camping!  
 
What’s your favorite road side snack?

Hmmmm…. in the morning I snack on whatever I take from breakfast — often cheese and baguettes. I stopped being shy about asking to take food from the breakfast table with me, explaining that I was on a cycle…..Oh yes, you asked me for my favorite snack. That would be fresh locally grown fruit and local goat cheese, with a bit of baguette.
 
Your bicycle has a great name. How did you come up with that?

Thanks!! Papillon. It is the word for butterfly in French.  During my Cévennes trip, one day I was slowly working my way up a pass. It was hot, and I kept climbing up, up, following the shade from one side to the other of the road. I noticed small green butterflies, fluttering seemingly always just in front of me, from side to side,  making their way, gracefully, if slowly, in the world.  My bike is also green, so the phrase “ma bicyclette, mon petit papillon vert” came to mind. That is an awfully big name so she became just Papillon. We flit along, not too fast, but make our way to many truly beautiful places.
 
What type of bike is Papillon?

Papillon is a Cannondale Touring 2.  I bought her just before my Cevennes trip, knowing it would be a lot better riding in steep country, with weight, than on the Trek I bought earlier. The Trek is now on an indoor setup for winter and I ride on it sometimes locally especially on our dirt roads. I’ve been lucky and not had any substantial problems….
 
Any plans for your next tour?

Not yet a plan, it’s still in the dream stage…however, I’ve never seen the Alps. My imagination starts on the Atlantic … in France, slips quickly into Spain, rides some of those high Pyrenees passes, crosses the Midi, riding Aigoul and then Ventoux, finds the Alps and finishes with a quick dive into a tiny bit of Italy .. on the Mediterranean.
 
 
 

Dear Rohloff

Dear Rohloff,
 
Please take care of my hubby Mr. Rohloff Wheel.  He has been on quite a voyage and due to the fact that he is overweight and too large in certain areas, I was unable to ship him with his tube or tire.  The postal service said NO, however an outlandish 20-30 day trial separation was suggested.  
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I walked across the border here in Turkey Cyprus to Greece Cyprus and found a shipping service that said yes he could go on a 3 day express holiday to Germany but only if he lost some weight and trimmed down his perimeter.  I hope he arrives safely to you for his rehabilitation.  I really appreciate your warranty hospital services for my hubby Rohloff, he has been unstable for quite some time. He definitely has got some issues that sparked our trial separation. His issues are:
 
  • Wheel wobble, a gap between the sprocket and hub area, possible bearing
  • The plastic cable cover that attaches to the wires for shifting that lead out of the hub has worn free
  • If possible at no cost, I would love the other type/size of sprocket put on.  I would like to have 3 more gears on the hills. It was set too high at Thorn at purchase because I did not truly understand at the time what I was being asked. I had never cycled before. This would also get me out of gear 7 which is my present pedaling gear and the one that wears the hardest over time. The ideal gear is 10 and I would love to pedal in gear 10 to take it easy on my hubby and continue pedaling the world.
  • Also, if it’s ok, I will buy and ship you one tire and if it is ok you could use that to protect the wheel on the way back.  The German postal system is a lot better than here so I think my hubby Rohloff’s overweight and length issues will not be of concern. Is that OK?
Thanks, my hubby’s stability has been deteriorating for quite some time and negatively affecting our relationship. I look forward to my hubby Rohloff’s return in an improved state so we can reconcile and continue to pedal together.
 
Signed,
 
The old ball and chain @skalatitude.com
Loretta Henderson (t-shirt size women’s S)

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Cyprus…How To Bicycle Tour Princess Style

As I make my way around N Cyprus, castles abound, the ocean scenery is splendid and the free camping is 5 star.  As I was leaving Girne (Kyrenia) after a trekking loop of the eastern tip of the Island, I met up with 3 other bicycle tourists on their way to cycle N Cyprus.  I truly enjoy trying new things therefore I was happy to pedal in my first mixed gender foursome for a bicycle tour of Turkish Cyprus. 

My low maintenance lifestyle exploded into a high maintenance bicycle touring affair.  My usual distances were reduced to 12km-56km a day. Our meals consisted of locating outdoor tables, and leisurely enjoying the best of the small market cuisine.  Free camping became a paradise of options when we searched for camping inside buildings or free inside hotels under repair.  Our lowest mileage day was 12km when my group decided to keep dry all day and watch the sky for rain.  I was a little surprised by the rain day retreat of cyclists who had also crossed Asia into Europe and clearly done some rainy cycling but quickly realized that there are many ways to bicycle tour and enjoyed staying dry with the group.
 
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photo taken by Loretta Henderson
Highlights of a princess style bicycle tour on Cyprus in a group of 4 which contained a French woman who funny enough, I don’t think was that interested in cycling included swimming at Golden Beach and a visit to Salamis the archeological site. At times it was hard to believe that 2 human women could actually be of the same gender and have bicycle touring in common. My high maintenance friend seemed to prefer spending the bicycle touring day sorting out 5 star inside camping and her laundry. This is a wonderful personality type that comes in very handy when turning a bicycle tour into a 5 star princess style bicycle touring affair. The 2 guys and I were more relaxed about how many stars our picnic table needed to have and probably would of preferred spending the time increasing the distances and speed a little.  However, I did appreciate the 5 star luxuries all the same.
 
Cyprus-Map directions
 
 
Here is the route, which loops N Cyprus from Girne, Kyrenia. Small food markets and fresh water are located throughout the route. Inside and outside camping options are plentiful.  There’s a lot of info on the internet about bicycle touring routes and trails in Cyprus. Here’s a great resourceHere are some public FB photos taken at the charming Cyprus Dorms and Hotel (the owner loves FB friends) where I stayed at the start and end of the loop.
 Special note: I also want to apologize to every man, woman and child who doesn’t like laundry jokes and/or this website. 

Cheers and Gears…How To Celebrate The Holidays On The Road

As the musical sound of some unknown voice belts out the verses of the Karan from the nearby mosque, my ears resonate with memories.  I am reminded not of the Christmas holidays but of the need for all mosques to update their speakers. 
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Realizing I am politically incorrect to mention such things, the Karan verses that are so freely sung through circa 1980’s stereo equipment on Muslim streets throughout the world would be beautiful if the acoustics were not similar to the sound of a deaf dog barking underwater.
With that said, there will never be room for Ebenezer Scrooge on Pandemic The Magic Bicycle. And, there are many people who are celebrating the holidays while singing beautiful carols around the world. 
 
As my family sits around an x-mas tree at my sister’s house opening gifts and eating turkey I find myself riding this holiday out solo not eating Turkey but in the country of Turkey (Cyprus) half way around the world.  In the spirit of a happy holiday, I refuse to give way to the sad lonesome blues as I open not presents but my many messages on skalatitude.com, Facebook, Twitter and e-mail.  My long time friend or rather someone I consider a sister by choice has send me a message, she has some big news to share.  She has started a blog just in time for the holidays. My pinterestinglife.com is a hit in only two weeks and rocking off the charts with huge reviews and requests for guest blogging posts.  My chosen sister of 20+years, Dawn Cochrane who is as obsessed as Martha Stewart with crafty ideas, has finally decided to share her gifts with a blog. 
 
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Her blog has become my on the road holiday choice to receive some well needed holiday cheer.  Her gift of household crafts is as obsessive of my love of bicycle travel. Through her creative blog writing and excellent photos, I have smiled and learned about making x-mas gift wrap out of children’s artwork and drooled while reading her Rudolf pancakes recipe.  I dearly appreciate such holiday cheer but most of all I love connecting and sharing the x-mas news with all of you. I hope you all enjoy the x-mas craft tips from her blog as much as I have this year. For all bicycle gears will also need some holiday cheer in order to pedal the continent of Africa by this time next year. 

You’re So Vain, Tips For Looking Great While Bicycle Touring

After months of full coverage cycling through India, Pakistan and Iran, I realized something about myself. I might as well change my name to Carly and start singing ‘You’re so Vain’ in the mirror to my self every morning because I had no idea how much the police in Iran mandating my attire would truly be such an issue.

I am more vain then I would of ever expected.  After 2 ½ years of bicycle touring it is safe to say that my panniers are depleted of clothing.  I presently own one pair of shorts and when I am cold, I wear knee socks or my rain pants. My wardrobe has been destroyed by the elements. Never having been a fan of that expensive sporty spf clothing material my cheap bohemian cotton shirts have the longevity of about 3 months of pedaling, before they are holier than a preacher at the pulpit. So what is the girly girl gear for guys too necessary fashion attire for bicycle touring?  Thanks to the internet and my dad, my shipping partner, I have ordered some new discounted clothing gear from the internet.  I can’t wait to get…..

 
  • Prana pants ¾ length pants intended for rock climbing are great for pedaling. They are cool looking, a little stretchy and tough enough for bike touring. My first pair lasted for 1 and ½ years of continuous touring.  They never fell apart and eventually just got sun burnt (literally). They became paper thin and you could see right through them.  I didn’t fancy flashing everyone on the planet so I eventually recycled them into bicycle cleaning rags.
  • Tavu visorA vanity purchase because they just look cool and will keep the sun off of my nose. My nose most days is a sun burnt flakey mess and someday soon I might end up being one of those super chic white zinc nose people. You could call me Carly and laugh at me if you would like.
  • Prana tank top.  Newly freed from the confines of a conservative dress code, I just need to get some air on my pedaling arms.. Prana clothes intended for yoga, wick moisture away and keep you dry while sweat drenched on the bike. I love the pants so I will be trying out the tops.
  • Ex-officio shorts.  My only pair of shorts for some time now. They are tough and I love the cargo pockets. I could pretty much camp for a couple of days out of the stuff I stash in the pockets. They do have that sporty spf material so they have lasted a really long time. I suffer from a brown circle on the bum of my beige shorts from the saddle so this time I ordered a dark brown pair.
     
    Pro-tip: If you dress the color of dirt to begin with it is far easier to stay clean looking while bicycle touring
  • Triposili Sunglasses.I love my  serengeti driver shadeshowever they have stretched a lot and are now way too big.  They fall off my head 5 times a day and the lenses fog over from sweat and I can’t see.  I stop cycling everyday a few times to wipe them, so I can see.  Also, I wear my hair in a pony tail and wrap the cord on the pony tail to keep the glasses attached to my face. They are tuff though, I have dropped them on the cement at least 50 times and they don’t break.  I am hoping the triposi glasses sold through amazon by Bike Somewhere fix my sunglasses issues. The new glasses come with 3 lenses. The clear lens is great for dusty foggy construction areas.
    What’s your favorite article of clothing for a bicycle tour?

Para-Cycling, The Balancing Act Of A Champion

Sheyda’s M. Heydar’s first bicycle was an old red bicycle that he found near his dusty stone home in his desert village, it was 1981 in Afghanistan.  Sheyda smiles at the memory of riding his red bicycle to school.  As I peer down at Sheyda’s identification card, it reads ‘Iran Cycling Federation of The Islamic Republic’. I am bursting and can barely contain my cheer inside, for meeting a professional cyclist is a huge treat.   
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Sheyda’s affection for sports began as a young child on the dusty stone streets in his village near Kabul, Afghanistan.  As youngsters do, he was taught be his family how to ride a bicycle. Soon the Taliban, a notoriously extreme political group took over the country side.  Armed with bombs, guns and violent enforcement, the Taliban terrorized the area with new rules.  Women and children were banned from schools. Museums, medical buildings and school texts were burned, banned or banished. 
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Sheyda could no longer ride his red bicycle to attend school. The streets were exploding in fear and such freedoms were now a frivolous thing of the past.  Bomb blasts were a daily affair.  Sheyda was given a gun by his neighbor. As a boy child, it was mandatory to replace his red bicycle with a weapon.  He was ordered to carry it and protect his family on the bomb laced streets alongside his neighbors.  Soon thereafter, Sheyda lost his leg to a Taliban bombing and fled Afghanistan to Iran, his family had been killed.
 
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Today, Sheyda’s around town bicycle is no longer red but is a silver Peugeot mtn. bike equipped with one spd clip pedal.   He is a professional para-cyclist sprint racer and most recently competed in the international para-games in Gangzou, China.  He is presently training in Shiraz, Iran on the sprint track with the other Iranian professional cyclists.  He hopes to beat his sprint record in the upcoming international games.  I know this sister cyclist will definitely be bursting with cheer for him on the inside and the out.

Girly Girl Gear For Guys Too

Last week, I received an e-mail, it was a questionnaire that a bicycle touring website gives to women cyclists. They wanted to know how many pairs of panties I am packing in my panniers. I told them that my be the adventure panties were none of their business.

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However, if they wanted to know what kind of PANNIERS I was packing I would love to talk about it. So here it is. I love my panniers and if you must know, yes they really do keep my panties safe, completely dry and condensation free in all conditions. And the best part of all? If you buy yours at skalatitude.com it doesn’t cost you anything extra and the small percentage skalatitude.com receives goes towards the purchase of a bicycle ambulance.

Dear Universe please let a truck stop, I think I need help arranging my funeral

Dear Universe please let a truck stop, I think I need help arranging my funeral
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My stomach gives up sometime during the night as I am camping during the season’s first frost and I lose track exactly how many times I have hurled. When the sun comes up in the morning, I pack up and decide to pedal into the closest town to look for a pharmacy or a place to die, whichever comes first. With my imminent death so near, immediately after hurling again, I say out loud while standing with magic bicycle on the side of the road. I say to the frosty Middle Eastern near winter air, I say

 
Dear Universe, please help me find a place to die or a pharmacy
 
My stomach has finally collapsed and succumbed to the bicycle tourist plight of a million different foods, waters and bacteria’s. After 2 ½ years of continuous bicycle travel my stomach has cart wheeled into one food and water adventure to the next and like the TV show fear factor sometimes it doesn’t always work out. However, this time it is different from all the other times, cycling, walking, laying down, and sitting are no longer possible. About all I can still manage is a glazed eyed, head scarf straightened half smile, a buckled over thumbs up and righteous attempt to not puke on myself in the wind.
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Dear Universe, thank you for intervening on my behalf
 
After 15 minutes intervals of cycling, stomach cramps, walking, puking and curling up on the side of the road, the universe intervenes on my stubborn, wood headed behalf. Pandemic the Magic Bicycle and I are collected by a super concerned man with a truck. About all I can still manage is a thumbs up, a smile and a thank you in Persian, the local language, as I crawl towards the saint, I mean truck. The man lifts Pandemic into the back of the truck because my stomach definitely isn’t about to lift Pandemic The Magic Bicycle loaded on this occasion.
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Hospitality in Muslim countries is legendary. My new friend thinks I have a injured leg, probably because I am walking doubled over, I motion it is my stomach. He wants to take me to his home and feed me. With my best travelers gesture I motion that I am sick, and say I need a pharmacy, a medicine store. He drives me to a hospital.
 
Pro-tip while gesturing sickness in any language always remember to be comically obvious, sound effects are helpful as well
 
As a tourist in Iran, I am guest of the country and it is very important that I have a good experience while travelling here. Police man, medical directors, hospitals managers, head nurses and anyone who knows 2 words of English are brought to my assistance when I ask about a pharmacy to buy some antacids. Not having any idea what is wrong with my belly I decide I should start with antacids. The hospital rolls Pandemic The Magic Bicycle into a treatment room behind the curtain and I realize I might be there for a while. Are you Anorexic? I mustered a laugh and said no, I am a bicycle tourist, however, anorexia and bicycle touring are remarkably similar in the hunger department. Where’s your Husband? Casper (the ghost), he is on vacation. Are You Alone? I am part of the International Social Club, we are always looking for new members…the questioning begins.
 
After a day of sonograms, iv bags, blood tests, 8 more pukes and 7 hours of observation for a sun burnt face that isn’t a fever , appendicitis, peptic ulcers, non-existent diarrhea, anorexia and being single, I decide it is time to leave the hospital. For the same reason that I would never take an old car to a mechanic because they will only find something to fix. My old worn out stomach is not improving what so ever so I decide to go into the next big city and self medicate and if it doesn’t improve I will go back to the hospital. I legally discharge myself with a written statement that says…
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Dear Universe, thank you for healing my tummy
 
My treatment in this hospital has been wonderful. I love Iran, I will definitely visit again, blah, blah blah…. That’s where I am now, discharged, feeling better in a guest house, drinking chamomile, peppermint tea, flat 7-up, eating plain pasta, bread and antacids, sleeping and waiting for my belly to settle so I can pedal the rest of the way through Iran before the snow flys in the Middle East.
 

How Great It Is To Be a Man in Baluchistan

As I sit and wait at sun rise in the no-mans land between Pakistan and Iran, I patiently wait for the Iranian border gate to open.
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I have learned that the Baluchi, Pakistan people are as jovial as it gets, with a laugh that jiggles their bellies, a laugh that Santa would be proud of. The Pakistani military police and I have become intimately acquainted lately when I was scooped up in Quetta in the Baluchistan province and prevented from cycling the majority of the way to the border by some surprisingly super fun police.
 
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I cycled the remaining KM to the border at sunrise keeping a low profile. I park Pandemic the magic bicycle with the Pakistani border police, sit and wait for the Iranian gate to open. I get to chatting with one of the guards. He tells me, he is looking for a wife and the rest of Pakistan has gotten too liberal and it is not good. Funny enough, he is very handsome and has a likeable demeanor, which is, until he starts talking. He is what I would call an unique conservative man and not your average Pakistani. He tells me with a big friendly smile , that he is 25 years old, that he can’t wait to become a man, he asks me how many women the boys at home have slept with at 25, and says he has only slept with one, he tells that my downtown area has gotten too old for these sort of things because of the cycling. As the sun continues to rise, I am trying not to laugh and therefore encourage any conversation that may take us further downtown or encourage a debate about the present fitness status of my aging hoohaa.


I put on my best curious travelers smile and sit back and listen. He continues with his views about how women are to stay at home and only after having birthed two boy babies will his wife be allowed to leave the house wearing a burka with full face coverage to go to the market. She will not be allowed to have friends, an education after 10th grade, and marrying at 15 is good. He is considering having a couple of wives, he is allowed 4. However, he is not sure he can afford it. You have got to love money for at least that, I think to myself. I ask him about some burn marks I have seen on some women’s faces, he tells me she did something at home and it’s ok that the man burns and/or beats her. As my teetering smile and eye balls pop out, I force myself to keep listening. I am genuinely fascinated and try to be respectful of differences; however, I think my tongue might be bleeding.


I asked the guard what he thinks about me. As a women bicycle travelling alone in Pakistan, I have often felt guilty about my tremendous freedom and significantly concerned about my sisters of the world. He says he thinks it is fine and wonderful because I am not a Baluchi woman. I wished him well finding his 4 wives, apologized that I wasn’t a polygamist and off I went pedaling into Iran on my aging hoohaa grateful for the education and that much more concerned about some of my sisters in Baluchistan.