Zebras for Zero Dollars…Budget Tips For African Safari Travel

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Safari-“an expedition to observe animals in their natural habitat”

Grandiose visions of wildlife, migrating wilder beast, roaring lions and galloping giraffe filled my gleeful mind when I first envisioned traveling through East Africa. A budget of about 10usd a day aught to cut it, I reasoned when I turned my wheels south into the continent from Cairo, Egypt. After all cycling is a low cost form of traveling and a great way to have a budget adventure. However, tourism is well established in Eastern Africa. high end holidays options abound. I do fully encourage African nations to make the most out of what they have to sell. However, some of us are still on a tight budget.

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Victoria Falls as seen for free from the walking bridge between Zambia and Zimbabwe

For instance entrance fees and transport to the pyramids round out at about 50-75usd, which I saw for free when I cycled out of Cairo and that herd of wilder beast will cost you 200usd plus a day to catch a binocular sized glimpse of them from afar roaming over the Serengeti plains of Kenya and Tanzania. But like most travelers, I came to experience Africa and for me that means looking at wacky wonderful species I had only seen in captivity.

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Pyramids of Egypt, free from the roads and parking lot

So how do you see Africa on a tight budget. After 3 plus years of cycling the world, it is safe to say I travel on limited means. I cut accommodation costs by sleeping for free at religious missions, police compounds, schools and outback of small shops on route meeting new friends and sharing my photos and stories along the way.

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free camping at a school on route

I venture in to the occasional tourists campground for 8-15usd a night in areas too heavily populated to sleep safely out in the bush somewhere. Although, free bush camping is great fun with the rainbow colored lizards, slugs the size of my hand and the fancy funny insects, spiders and snakes. So how can you spot those lions, tigers and budget bears, oh my ? (Other then clicking your heals together that is). Here are some things I have learned this past year to keep the low cost fun going.

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Elephants who really do not care about park boundaries, (60km from Kasane, Botswana 5km from the Namibian Border

Bring A Tentmany campgrounds, backpackers and lodges have camping spots that will cost you half the price of a room. It is also less hot outside in the breeze than indoors most of the time.

Game Reserves are a fraction of the cost of national parks and often will allow cycling/walking. Reserves of Malawi, Kenya and Zambia are great examples of this. They are home to giraffe, zebra and hippos.

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Have elephants forgotten where the park boundary is?
Cycle or walk around outside the national parks that have known animals populations. The elephants of Botswana are often seen for free outside park boundaries saving the cost of entrance fees. Warthogs haven’t got a clue about boundaries either. Lions are rarely spotted during the day but also roam about at night outside the lines and probably best left out in the dark.

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Ask other travelers where they have spotted animals for free.

-The odds are pretty good that the giraffe they saw last week eating on the side of the road has develop a taste for that specific area.

-Northern Namibia Zebras, Giraffe.Malawi, crocodiles love the lake and are often spotted in Nhkata Bay.

-Uganda Lake Victoria area, hippos live by the dozens in the south east corner and easily spotted for free from the dirt tracks at a distance.

Sudan,watch camels galore make their way north through the Sahara to Egypt.

Special note: There are some hazards. I pushed Pandemic The Magic Bicycle through the woods this past week while stalking a zebra. A thorny stick poked my leg through my pants…fast forward 3 days. I have a tropical ulcer on my leg which is healing well and doesn’t feel too bad to cycle on. So, be careful out there because even zebras for zero dollars have their costs.

7 Surprising Destinations For A Great Bicycle Tour

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Is it safe? Is that a good location for a bicycle tour? Personal safety tops the charts in everyone’s minds when it comes to travelling abroad especially for a bicycle tour.  Europe, France in particular comes to a lot of people’s minds in terms of tourist in fracture and a long standing history of bicycle travel. In fact, having never cycled before, I began my world bicycle tour in Europe. I started in England, and pedaled the coast of Wales and then took the ferry to Ireland.  The sustran network has some wonderful maps of local cycle paths through Europe for slow going recreational bicycle touring. However, many of the larger open roads remain not bicycle friendly and more cycling accidents do occur in Europe than say Ethiopia, my current location. 

Ethiopia is a challenge not due to traffic but a largely hilly terrain and the occasional shenanigan of a rock throwing child. 
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However, what you will find in Ethiopia and much of the developing world is slow gentle traffic and near empty roads. Laos and the entire world renowned bicycle touring loop in SE Asia  delights cyclists by the dozens from the around the globe.  Year round cyclists flock to revel in the delicious inexpensive cuisine, short distances between accommodation and friendly locals. Often, there is not another vehicle in sight except another bicycle tourist enjoying another delicious snack.
 
India might just be the most dangerous place I have cycled; I do believe I was the only one trying to stay alive while on the road, after all, beliefs in reincarnation do have their limits. However, the Manali to Leh highway is an oxygen gasping testament to altitude cycling and a must pedal for many mountain enthusiasts. 


New Zealand may have a “we rarely lock our doors policy” but also hosts non existence roads shoulders and quadruple length logging trucks. After announcing that he wants to be the all time most cycle friendly governor, NZ’s top dog is now busy lengthening the cycle tour network of routes throughout New Zealand. With a little planning reducing cautionary yellow hazards can be easily avoided and the far southern hemisphere scenery is stunning.
 
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Mention my favorite destination of Pakistan’s Karakorum Highway for cycle touring and many people conjure up images of pedaling amidst terrorists and bombs. However, while I pedaled through Pakistan and also Iran and Sudan, deeply ingrained in the Muslim religion is a welcoming of visitors with open arms. A warmer welcome and safer more beautiful road, I have never felt among the general public then in the Muslim world, particularly on the KKH of Pakistan.
 
Sudan is another destination that makes for a wonderful bicycle tour. An unusual destination but Sudan boasts empty paved roads, a non-existent crime rate, wonderful freedom camping, nice people and water and food every 50km. The South Sudan conflict now peaceful, so readily spoken of in the media is truly a world away from North Sudan and an amazing camel laden cycling route that crosses the famed Sahara desert.
 
Is it safe to travel there? Is that a good location for a bicycle tour? Questions, I usually dodge because the best place for a bicycle tour is the one unique to you, it is the one that leads out your front door.
 
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What Are The Best Roads For Cycling?

“Neehow”, the little boy waves hello from the side of the road, “Neehow” I think to myself is not Arabic, the Sudanese language or English, “Neehow” is Chinese.  The newly updated road surface here in Sudan is a familiar delightful site. 

A road built for exportation and a quick delivery of oil and goods or a bicycle tourist heading across Sudan on her way to Capetown, South Africa. During the recent world economic collapse, China put money into their domestic economy and under communist rule put people to work building roads within China.  China’s economy bounced back. Trained Chinese construction workers, civil engineers and architects were then sent to build roads throughout the world, “Neehow” new superpower.
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                     Sudan checkpoint police man catching some shade in his new hat
 
Sudan contains a wealth of resources and has an important location next to the Red Sea. Port Sudan is the waterway exit of oil and the transportation hub out of NE Africa. Some superpowers have ruled through military force while China quietly builds an empire of development and the necessary infrastructure. Cell tower construction is also rampant throughout Sudan. Villagers are relocating their homes next to cell towers. Homes of Nubian Desert grass, cement, clay and tarps are popping up next to cell towers throughout the region. Men now ride their camels and donkeys leading herds throughout the hills while chatting away on their “mobi” cell phones as I cycle past having left such technologies happily behind.
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I have cycled throughout China and it’s borders roads (border roads of Vietnam, Laos, Mongolia, Pakistan, Tibet) on this around the world tour and it is safe to say China builds phenomenal roads for cycling. Roads with fresh fast new tarmac, spacious safe shoulders, two wide lanes for oncoming traffic and hill grades of symmetrical switchback portions for wonderful mountain climbs. “Neehow” China, keep up the good road work!

Tips and Magic Bicycle Tricks For Bicycle Touring With Only Two Panniers

As anyone who has read Roll’in With My Hommies, How To Bicycle Tour Anywhere With Only 2 Panniers knows, Pandemic The Magic Bicycle is a close personnel friend of Houdini’s. Pandemic The Magic Bicycle ran into Houdini at the Spokes Bar for a talk about bicycle touring anywhere with only 2 panniers.
Pandemic The Magic Bicycle:
So Houdini, you are into bondage, are you an S and M freak or something? What’s with all the straps you got on the outside of your back rack?
 
Houdini:
Take it easy Pandemic, I only got into bondage because I was afraid of being too weighted down with unnecessary equipment.  By the way, I love your rohloff equipped Thorn Raven…Oh la la. And, like your 2 pannier bicycle touring set up, my escape artist act has been spoken of as a very efficient use of space… of course,  you can forgo a bulky cook set and put an MSR int’l whisper lite stove inside one large pot. You just have to pick the right pot. MSR Pot or cheap pot like the one you might already have is a great use of pannier space.  Please don’t tell anyone Pandemic but I do get off on back rack bondage. Thanks for letting me know that your sea to summit light dry sack tore very easy, I agree those light weight Ortlieb dry bags are a lot tougher.
 
pam
 
 
Pandemic the Magic Bicycle:
Houdini we have known each other since 2009, you and we have stuck together through continuous bicycle touring in 18 countries. Can I talk to you about some personnel stuff, I been having some issues….with change.  It’s hard to talk about because it has happens quite a bit. My Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires keep getting changed from front to back due to uneven wear.  On the bright side, I have cycled/boat/cycled the same Schwalbe tires from N. Oz to the Turkey/Iran border.  Punctures? Hardly any, unlike you Houdini I don’t mess with that kind of necessary bondage. Funny enough, I have only used one small patch kit,  although, I did have to replace the glue twice.  Yo, Houdini, did you know that glue evaporates inside panniers. What’s up with that, did you have something to do with it?
Houdini:
Whatever Pandemic, how’s your rohloff doing? What makes you think you are magic anyway, you got a screw loose or something?
 
Pandemic the Magic Bicycle:
Stay inside the box will y’ah. Screw loose? N’ah man, I have only snapped one rack bolt in all this time, that’s why I carry only a small tools and spares bag and no extra bicycle parts. When the bolt snapped, I stole a bolt off of a bottle cage and repaired the back rack until I could buy the right bolt. I also have one handmade allen key multi-tool and one rohloff/pedal wrench.  My hardly used and not missed leatherman multi-tool used to live in a small pannier under the saddle,  a brooks B-17 standard, women’s.  This was taken so I no longer want any small panniers bags on the exterior of my frame.  Thanks to a puzzling contortionist packing technique that I sure you can understand Houdini, bicycle touring anywhere with only 2 panniers is definitely possible.
 
Houdini:
Pop a wheely Pandemic and stay in touch as you continue pedaling to Capetown. You are in Cyprus aren’t you? Which route will you take?
 
Pandemic The Magic:
Excuse me for a minute, I am not feeling well; my logistics just puked on my air sickness. The ferry boats to Egypt from Cyprus and EU to Egypt have been cancelled. They still run, summer only to Israel. Due to airsickness, flying is not an option. Syria visa?  Pedal/Boat/Pedal to Morocco?  I haven’t decided yet, for now, I’m just wait’in on a man.

Roll’in With My Homies…How To Bicycle Tour With Only Two Panniers

I have been asked several times how I got bicycle touring gear and a camping kit into 2 Ortlieb panniers and no handlebar bag instead of the typical 4-5 pannier set up.  The answer is Houdini is a close personnel friend of Pandemic The Magic bicycle, just kidding. Here are 5 myths debunked about lightweight 4 season bicycle touring.

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Myth 1 You must not be camping
 
I camp and only sleep inside in big cities when it’s cheap and/or makes sense. My camping kit for the last few years of continuous touring consists of…
 
Tent/Home
I had an amazing Vaude Hogan Ultra light which was too hot for the tropics of SE Asia until I lost the poles. A small patchable hole encouraged me to purchase a new tent.
 
Tent 2, Big Agnes Fly Creek 1. This tent was too small and not tough enough. The mesh ripped almost immediately and the zipper gave out after only 2 months. Things kept failing out of the pocket and hitting me in the head and I wouldn’t describe this free standing tent as free standing.
 
Tent 3, It’s necessary to have a tent without holes for poisonous bugs up ahead in Africa therefore Tent 3 is on it’s way. Tent 2  I will cut and use as a double ground cloth. Thanks to a online x-mas sale plus coupon I purchased the Mountain Hardwear skyledge 2.1 for $196. Happy New Years and Gears to me!
 
MSR whisper light int’l stove, which after some cleaning of the fuel pump has been unstoppable at altitude and with use of various fuels in the Middle East, great in all conditions so far.
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Franscesco from Italy on the Manali to Leh Highway, Himalayan Mtns., N. India
 
Cook Pot (unknown brand) , a plastic container from China with a sealable lid that serves as a sauce holder, take-away container and coffee cup. I often cook lunch at breakfast time and store it in the container.
 
Fork, spoon, chopsticks, knife. I have two knives, a buck knife and an X-L REDRUM type knife that I found on the road in Malaysia. It’s great for cutting watermelons and heads (just kidding).
 
Sleeping Pad REI  ¾ inflatable, bought off of another bicycle tourist who was done camping in N. India. Until then, I had an $8 blue foam mat that I replaced on route, which I miss.
 
Sleeping Bag Mountain Hardwear 3 season.  It is a warm, wide women’s bag and there’s enough room inside for me to curl up.
 
Water bag, Ortlieb 20L it makes a great hot shower and water carrier for expedition type areas. Others have reported they are easy to puncture and that the MSR water bags are tougher but mine is holding up fine.
 
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Dervla Murphy, Ireland To India
 
 
Myth 2. You must never change your clothes
 
Cycling Shirts
Call me a girly girl here but I usually carry 8 bohemian cotton shirts, long and short sleeved purchased cheap on route, shorts,  a couple of tank tops, 5 multi-functional buffs for my shaggy locks and 6 pairs of socks because my only shoes are Shimano cycling sandals given to me in Malaysia.
 
Be The Adventure Panties
Houdini loves my ‘be the adventure panties’, so I remember to always pack these. I have a fake arct’rex fleece jacket, marmot precip jacket, 3 pairs of thin gloves and faux leather over-mittens that I made for $.50 because my Gortex over-mitts were stolen.
 
Thermals
A full set of thermals (brand unknown), pants, 1 short and 2 long sleeve synthetic tops which are all perfect for rain, snow and mtns . In the rain, I pedal in my  Gortex ski pants that I have had for a decade. They are too heavy for warmer rain but are amazing to warm up fast in wet cold temperatures. Travelers since the beginning of time have worn hats so I have 3+ of those as well. I usually find them on the road and wash and wear them.
 
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Loretta Henderson (me) in Tibet, China
 
 
Myth 3 You must not have a laptop
 
Asus Eee PC
On a bad day, writing until I laugh makes me feel better, therefore, I carry an Asus Eee PC ($300usd) purchased in Thailand which I named Prozac.  I also carry a Nikon L120 camera, 3 mp3 players, a cell phone that I don’t use and all the electrical cords. I have a tool bag full of spare bolts and tools that I have found on the roads. I pick up anything metal that might help a magic bicycle or Houdini.
 
 
Myth 4 You must be on a short bicycle tour
 
I have been on the road since 2009, 18 countries and a not counted number of KM’s. Bicycle computers are great but too easy to lose.  The first six months I had the traditional set up of 4 panniers. I cycled for 3 months with one front pannier completely empty. This bothered my brain while pedaling because I was no longer balanced literarily. I send my water purifier home which was never used and never since been missed, called Houdini and had him pack the back 2 panniers. I added a light Ortlieb dry bag that I carry inside a pannier. It can expand and be attached to the back rack to hold a week or more worth of food for expedition areas.
 
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(the front bag is from a backpack I found on the road, it  was an experiment that didn’t last long)
 
 
Myth 5 You are a midget bicycle tourist
 
Ok, this might not be a myth. At 5 foot 1 and ¾ inches, I have never been the biggest kid in the class.  I met a tall cyclist who was very weight conscious. He looked at my fit for Houdini set up and said ‘yeah that works because your clothes are smaller and you eat less than me’. This myth might be the secret of how Houdini got out of that box and Pandemic The Magic Bicycle and other WOW(women on wheels) and men can bicycle tour anywhere with only 2 panniers.


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Tips and Magic Tricks For Bicycle Touring With Only 2 Panniers
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Dear Rohloff

Dear Rohloff,
 
Please take care of my hubby Mr. Rohloff Wheel.  He has been on quite a voyage and due to the fact that he is overweight and too large in certain areas, I was unable to ship him with his tube or tire.  The postal service said NO, however an outlandish 20-30 day trial separation was suggested.  
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I walked across the border here in Turkey Cyprus to Greece Cyprus and found a shipping service that said yes he could go on a 3 day express holiday to Germany but only if he lost some weight and trimmed down his perimeter.  I hope he arrives safely to you for his rehabilitation.  I really appreciate your warranty hospital services for my hubby Rohloff, he has been unstable for quite some time. He definitely has got some issues that sparked our trial separation. His issues are:
 
  • Wheel wobble, a gap between the sprocket and hub area, possible bearing
  • The plastic cable cover that attaches to the wires for shifting that lead out of the hub has worn free
  • If possible at no cost, I would love the other type/size of sprocket put on.  I would like to have 3 more gears on the hills. It was set too high at Thorn at purchase because I did not truly understand at the time what I was being asked. I had never cycled before. This would also get me out of gear 7 which is my present pedaling gear and the one that wears the hardest over time. The ideal gear is 10 and I would love to pedal in gear 10 to take it easy on my hubby and continue pedaling the world.
  • Also, if it’s ok, I will buy and ship you one tire and if it is ok you could use that to protect the wheel on the way back.  The German postal system is a lot better than here so I think my hubby Rohloff’s overweight and length issues will not be of concern. Is that OK?
Thanks, my hubby’s stability has been deteriorating for quite some time and negatively affecting our relationship. I look forward to my hubby Rohloff’s return in an improved state so we can reconcile and continue to pedal together.
 
Signed,
 
The old ball and chain @skalatitude.com
Loretta Henderson (t-shirt size women’s S)

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