How To Practice Gratitude, Cycling and Meditation

Just a few months back, I was tossed like a ragdoll after getting hit by a bus miraculously suffering nothing more than a mildly bruised arm, a couple of shredded fingernails and destroying a bunch of expensive replaceable gear. The vivid memory drifts into my conscience while pedaling towards Cusco, Peru.
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Breathe in, breathe out, focus on breath…push, pull, push, pull, coast… My legs repeat the circular motion of pedaling.  

The financial loss of the accident or bus assault is the least important of the potential outcomes.  I find myself grateful to new sponsors for replacing some of which was destroyed. However, all these months later, when I am passed by a big hard bus while pedaling, I can still see the blurry smoky blue color of that boisterous bus that hit me at 94km/62mph in my peripheral vision. The holler of scratching metal against my shoulder and bicycle has faded but the memory of the noise remains in my ears, near body trauma or possible death does have some lingering effects.  I cycle on feeling extremely fortunate and very grateful to still be around.
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Breathe in, breathe out, focus on breath… Push, pull, push, pull, coast…
 

A repetitive cathartic rhythm I find meditative propels me northward through South America and into Peru. The altiplano of Peru at 13,000 feet provides a spectacular backdrop of red hued mountains, Inca ruins and lush cascading rivers, a perfect location for meditative, rhythmic cycling and practicing gratitude.

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“This is better than a Buddhist Vispassana retreat, more effective that sitting meditation and much more fun than an indoor yoga class, Thank you Peru”
 
 I say out loud while leaning over the handlebars. The road is descending rapidly out of the high altitude altiplano region before climbing again into Cusco.  Peru’s cultural center infamous for the Machu Pinchu Inca ruins.
 
“Thank you, Peru for large road shoulders AND putting up ‘caution cyclists in the shoulder signs’, what a great effort” I say while chuckling, bubbling with gratitude and bursting of new exhilarating oxygen supplies.
 

Herds of shaggy sheep, their lean bodies covered by a matted mass of superfluous fluff waddle across the road in search of the adjacent river’s hydration.  Villagers clad in vibrant purple crinoline lined skirts carry bundles of fresh green sticks tied to their backs. Their blue and white checkered smocks protect their skirts from the falling leaves. Sombreros (hats) of every variety protect their bronzed faces from the craggy mountain’s sharp sun rays.

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“Thank you to the people of Peru for being so beautiful and for wearing hats. I love hat countries and Peru is definitely one of the best hat countries I have ever seen” 
 
I say to myself as I steer around the populated roadside. Plenty of bicycle carts congest the road shoulder, large rectangular metal signs erected by the Peruvian government provide a constant remainder to motorized traffic to stay alert and slow down, providing parochial Peruvians time to wave, smile and honk as they pass me.

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Focus Retta, Focus…Breathe in, breathe out…push, pull, push, pull, coast
The mountain road begins to climb.
“Being off the bike for a month to see a dentist in La Paz, Bolivia is the best idea I have ever had. Thanks to Christian at the La Paz Casa De Cyclistes for the great stay. Thanks all at Dental Mundo, I love my healthy teeth” 
 
I blurt out through my sparkly pearly whites to the shaggy sheep in need of haircuts.
 
Breathe in, breathe out, focus on breathe, breathe in, breathe out…push, pull, push, pull, coast…
 

Rounding the world alone by bike for the last 5 years is how I have developed my instincts to stay safe in every imaginable situation. Taking the occasional month long break and resting those instincts is how I have developed my instinct endurance. The ability to try to stay tuned on and tuned in to my surroundings at all times and being as genuinely happy as possible through the practice of active positivity.

“Thank you, well rested instinct endurance… practicing gratitude is fun, the more I practice the easier it rolls with me… this has got to strengthen the instincts” I say to the steep mountain incline. The road is a never ending platform on and of which to be grateful.

Focus Retta Focus… Breathe in, breathe out, upward, onward…push, pull, push, pull, breathe

Peru Photo Album  Click Here

Have You Thrown Your Egg Today?



As I stand on the street corner in Puerto Natales, Chile, my pockets bulging with a roll of duct tape and zip ties, my eyes catch a glipse of a shiny royal blue bus, the big hard metal beast that drove into me at 94 km/hr from behind, a few days ago when I was hit by a bus.  

´´Grr, I don´t like you very much´´ I say out loud into the breeze. The dark demonic bus revs it´s well tuned engine as if responding with a snut-nosed snarky reply. The new black tires, weapons of potential mass cyclist destruction roll forward.

´´Fucktard!´´ I mumbled while my eyes squint like a canon about to launch.  A glance that could melt the pants off of Lucifer explodes from my eye sockets. I am definitely having anger management issues I think to myself as I find myself stuck in a frenzied, desperate, all encompassing desire to throw eggs at the bus. 

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Ostrich Egg or Chicken Egg, What Kind of day Are You Having?
Ah good old fashioned eggs… there are fried eggs, boiled eggs, scrambled eggs, eggs souffles, egg quiches, egg omelets, ostrich eggs, poached eggs, sunnyside up, sunny side down, deviled eggs…where´s Forest Gump when you need him?…. In fact today I officially declare as ´´Throw A Egg At A Bus Day´´. Have you thrown your egg today?, please let me know how it splatters in the comments section below.
Stupid Bus Company Sur, thanks for the fancy NO to my request for gear replacement, I too am grateful to be alive but my letter was more of a way to document the incident than a financial request, I was hoping it would be a way to remind Bur Sur drivers to be more careful so somebody doesn´t get smashed like an egg. Maybe I have just cracked like an egg, I didn´t even hit my hard boiled head so it can´t be that. I think to myself.  I continue walking in a bubble of gratitude, still surprised to not be injured in search of bungee cords and bailing wire. An action that seems ridiculously insignificant after getting hit by a bus but not physically injured.

Thank you to everyone for the well wishes on this blog, facebook and twitter. Please enjoy the new photos from Patagonia.
 

 

 

Rehab is For Quitters…Why You Should Winter Cycle Tour in Patagonia

Ah fuckity” I say out loud into the frosty Patagonian air.

My gortex gloved hands grasp the frigid wobbling handlebars. The mighty force of the gale triumphs over my futile attempts to hold the handlebars from wobbling. The winds velocity slams me in the forehead like a hindi dot. My mind wonders to all things warm. Thoughts of spicy Indian dahl and chicken tikka massala pass the time as the Indigo Girls song ‘…Let’s Make Peace Tonight’ blasts into my MP3 player. The brittle plastic headphones are tucked into my warm ears under my fleece head wrap.

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Ah fuckity…this wind tunnel must lead to the looney bin!”

I begin talking to myself and dismount from Pandemic The Gale Force Magic Bicycle. My leg which has done more walking then cycling in the last 100km, flings high off the bike into the wind. My keene sandal and neoprene sock covered foot lands on the rocky dirt road somewhere near C. Sombrero, Terra Del Fuego, Patagonia. To test today’s wind speed, I tilt my head back and spit into the now sideways wind, hawking loogies for distance is my new hobby.

She shoots, she SCORES” I shout, my spit ball clears the two lane highway.

My eyes redden and tear from the cold wind. The puddles appear blurry, they are frozen over with ice and loogies. My cycling spirit flourishes as I lean down and continue to walk forward like a junkie looking for a easy fix.

Donde es uno hospitale mentalite? Where is a mental hospital? Ah rehab is for quitters!..I am now losing the other ½ of my mind in 2 languages”

I say to myself as I push for the afternoon in a wind storm fit for the ‘Nationa1 Geographic Edition of Morons Pushing Bicycles in the Worlds Windiest Places’. I call off the quest at 4:30 after 46km, 3- two lane loogies, 1- shoulder penalty loogie and 11- ¾ lane loogies to camp under the road at the first available form of shelter, a culvert.

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Where did it all go so wrong? There has always been a fine line between a bicycle tourist and hobboist” I reason, as I unroll my gorgeous helliberg tent. Surprisingly, it fits perfectly inside the dirty culvert.

Who knew?..It IS named the (helliberg) Jannu…ah fuckity…I am a poet and I didn’t even know it. A Kryptonite cockail…now that would help the cycling…This is where a junkie would sleep, I talk to myself too much. Ah, conversations with my self about talking to myself is definitely a side effect from winter cycle touring in Patagonia…rehab is for quitters…” I babble on, laugh and look around at the crack in the ice on the ground.

UPDATE:WOW (Women On Wheels) Wall
I just finished my first solo tour across the United States! I found this blog before setting out and thought of it often during my tour. Ladies- We can soar like birds, traveling the world on our bicycle, embracing our independence, and making our lives our own. I’m so proud of all of us! Pedal on!” Heather Jones 

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Wintertime Bicycle Touring, Wise or Wacko?

If I ever get on a sailboat like that again for 6 weeks with three smelly boys to cross the Atlantic ocean please feel free to hit me over the head with a large hammer”

I say while laughing out loud with a huge smirk at the Sao Luis, Brazil immigration official. Perspiration drips from my upper lip. Cycling in 100 degree humidity has gotten the best of my sweat glands.

His English is strong. His sense of humor is not. His wide bronzed left hand holds my faded blue passport. His sweaty right hand holds my country visa entry stamp.

So sorry misses, but I cannot stamp you into Brazil because you have already cycled 900km into Sao Luis, where is the sailboat, why didn’t you stamp in when you got here?” He rightfully questions, why I am on a bicycle and not a boat.

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( I am such a girl sometimes. My new Helliberg Jannu matches Pandemic)

The boat of boob-heads came here illegally, I didn’t know when I volunteered to crew on the captain’s boat. A remarkably offensive man who I have nick named Captain Banana Hammock after his squeevey red speedo. Ah speedo my libido one final time, I chuckle to myself while realizing perhaps the official doesn’t need to know the whole ‘I bailed off the boat’ story. Or, my belly aching that I will not be getting a valid visa or an extension or be able to cycle across South America via the amazon of Brazil.

The sailboat is not here Sir,, they have left Brazil, what should I do?” I ask with a time rich, cash poor traveler’s willingness to be flexible.

Life is what happens when you are busy making other plans I think to myself knowing this situation is either going to take time or money. The two great riches of slow bicycle travel.

Go to the border, go be illegal and take care of it then. You have 12 days” The official utters. The damp pocket of his lime green cotton shirt hangs forward. His silver immigration badge dangles. It is shimmering in the glow of the humid rain season air.

Brazil, a massive country is bordered by about a quazillion countries. North to French Guyanna is expensive, the Bolivian Andes my first choice is 12+ days of non-scheduled boat travel and a week of pedaling. South to Argentina is a 3 1/2 day bus journey, buses have never been my chosen method of forward travel. My only real goal is to see the Andes and cycle across my final continents…finish this full-time world cycling this.

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(memories…when riding in humidity was so much more fun)

Thank you sir, maybe I will go be illegal” I smile, the irony not missed about how there are illegal immigrants all over the world and here I am ‘illegal’ in Brazil. I leave the stuffy building and head towards making a decision…

Ok there is no bad weather for cycling. If the weather is gonn’a be extreme, as in boiling in Brazil, it might as well be beautiful. This is just a false start in South America, that all it is. I will bus to the Iguazu Falls border and cycle to Uruguay to pick up gear and start again at the bottom of the continent. I know it’s winter in the southern hemisphere that close to Antarctica but f##ck it that is what I am gonn’a do, I just need the right gear and a little luck with sponsors.

(Absolutely humbled by Iguazu Falls, Argentina. Back to the bike. Iguazu Falls to Montevideo, Uruguay to pick up gear. Thanks sponsors, my family and all those involved with int’l shipping for sending me the gear)

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Winter Bicycle Touring Gear List
Feet:
Neo villager overboots (Amazon.com cost $60 USD
Fleece lined Neoprene socks (E-bay $10 USD)
Baffin synthentic booties (Amazon $30 USD)
Keene sandals ($80 USD)

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(Neoprene socks inside these sandals. Neos Over shoes over top when it gets slushy)
Hands:
Overmitts (cost $30 USD, not label)
Fleece mitts (no name cost $6 USD)
Fingerless “magic gloves” (no name cost $1 USD)

Legs:
Gortex pants (15 years old, cost $99 USD)
Wool thermal bottom (icebreakers-sponsor)
Prana pants ($100 and worth every penny)
Ex-offcio ¾ length Capris
Ex-officio Nomad shorts

Upper Body and Head:
Wool thermal zip tee top (icebreaker-sponsor)
Nano puff patagonia jacket ($160 USD ½ price online clearance)
Rain shadow patagonia jacket ($100 USD E-Bay)
Synthetic tank-top (3 USD in Zambia)
Icebreaker short sleeve wool t-shirt (second hand)
3 Buffs (One arctic fleece and 2 synthentic, $20-30 USD purchased in Namibia)

Sleeping Bag:(sponsor) Jacks R Better High Sierra Sniveller down quilt. It is a warmer bag than my present 3 season mountain hardware bag which is approx. 950 sleeps old)
Mat:(Thermarest X-therm, it is more quipped for consistent sleeping on snow. A replacement of my 3 season $38 USD no-name mat from South Africa)
Tent: Helliberg Jannu (sponsored) (4 season mountaineering tent)
Eating:
Koveo Extreme Stove with fuel compressed gas fuel cannister (I find it to be more reliable than my MSR int’l multi-fuel. I am sleeping with the fuel canister to keep it warm)

30 x-L Seal-Line dry bag (sponsor). Winter touring takes about twice as much food. I’ll also be eating sweetened vegetable shortening by the spoonful. A trick for the skinny that I used while living in Alaska for 9 years.
PandemicThe Magic Bicycle (enough said)

Cycling Routes in South America…Any Suggestions?

The words burst out of my greasy salting lips as my huge smiling eyes focus through the thick morning glare. A maze of obstacles appear from the ocean surf, green and red navigational buoys in the Forteleza, Brazil port multiply as the South America landfall approaches.

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Holy big cow wow, this is insanely exciting!!!”

I say out loud to the Captain. His long ash blonde hair blows in the breeze as it has for many an ocean crossing. His 60 year old freckled hands grasps an I-pad. His polarized sunglass covered eyes peer down confidently at the LED screen as the chart coordinates for the marina appear. He has reached his final continent of a sailing circumnavigation. I have reached the Americas, my final continents to complete cycling around the world.

Crossing Africa by magic bicycle is one thing, but crewing on a sailboat across an ocean to South America… this is just toooo cool…. water travel is the original form of travel after walking, it’s how countries were discovered… this is way too cooool”

I practically hoot and holler with the exhilarating force of an ecstatic happy bomb about to detonate. There is no containing my excitement at this point. I am firmly gripping the yachts salty steering wheel trying not to jump up and down. I haven’t slept, night time came and went as I steered the boat under the approaching equatorial stars towards a South American landfall.

My hyper lever has spiked on high, I can feel it in my bouncing toes. Focus Retta focus, I think to myself, keep both feet firmly planted on boat, hands on the wheel… focus on water obstacles, look for floating stuff, don’t hit anything I grin to myself. The white sandy Brazilian shoreline and the historic Cathedral Metropolitana Central rise on the shoreline. Cycling a route through the Americas awaits.

Any route suggestions anyone?

Ascension Island

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The glimmering glow of a half moon creates shadows through the iridescent red glow of our head lamps.Six of us, all who have arrived on Ascension island by sea, walk the many hills of the yellow sandy beach. My toes dig deep into the sand to find balance under the 1 AM starry night. An amazingly pleasant experience after sitting on a rocking sailboat for 3 weeks. Some say sailing is adventurous but truth be told it is a little boring. Often finding myself having trouble sitting still for so many hours. Story telling fill our hours between meals. The kitchen galley becoming a focal point of our days. On a quest for green sea turtles at 1 AM on the worlds largest sea turtle nesting site after too many beers on a Monday afternoon is pure perfection.

“Watch out there’s another one”

I hear whispered into the darkness. My eyes registering on two baby green turtles the size of a x-large coin. Their legs,shaped as flippers push them speedily through the sand.  The mad dash for the ocean is in full bloom. At a huge risk for predators, the babies hatch from their eggs in the evening and make there way to the sea.

“Guys, guys over here”

The group has found a giant female turtle on her way to lay her eggs. Unfortunately our excitement level frightens her and she u-turns at a hustle back to the sea

I mumble apologetically as the guilt sets in.

“I guess that’s is why they have conservation projects like this one” We all agree as we continue are walk on the sandy beach in search of sea turtles. This time quietly, without lights and a whisper…..

Sailing The Atlantic…This Side Up.

I was wearing full condom holding AK 47 in Poland military” Frederyk explains as he motions his calloused hands to his torso, his veteran guitar player hands gesturing that the term ‘full condom’ used by creative English speakers means full body protection. His freckled bare arms sway with the boats rocking motion. His cycling tan has faded and has been replaced by developing sea legs. The ocean swells heave the boat from side to side as the hours pass. The crew and captain of ‘This Side Up’ have been living together at sea for 148 hours.

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As we pass the prime meridian line, the south Atlantic’s cascading swells and the boats beautiful polished wood interior are the perfect backdrop for telling stories, old and new. A perfect way to pass the time between the cooking of meals in the adventurous galley. Where dangling a spatula in one hand and trying not to fall on your head swaying on the rocky boat is all part of novel nautical nourishment.

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How do you like your eggs Captain?… I can’t promise anything?” I ask almost rhetorically from the small cubicle galley. The special boat stove sways on it’s hinges as the vessels rounded haul shimmies over the 3-4 meter S. Atlantic swells. I’m feeling more like a inhabitant of a gravity free spaceship than a sailboat as I sway uncontrollably with a hot frying pan in my hand. That counter top is probably more decorative than functional right now as a place to put anything I think to myself. As a plateful of my invention, indo-guaco-eggs takes flight from the kitchen counter at full speed. It splats egg chunks, and smears avocado pieces into the floor. “Ten second rule”, I hear Billy and Frederyk chuckle almost simultaneously with understanding, for we all have been taking turns cooking meals on board the bouncy vessel.

As long as it has been on the floor less than ten seconds, it’s ok to eat?, Ten SECONDS? How about ten MINUTES!

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No, I’ll eat it” I say laughing as I lean over digging the greasy spatula into the mess on the teak floor. I am still laughing at how hard it is during the big swells to stay upright in the kitchen galley. The Captain bruised ribs are a testament to acrobatic balance while rocking at sea. As well as my back roll over the table with a miraculous ass over tea-kettle soft landing into a cushioned couch. All part of life on board the boat named ‘This Side Up’ as we approach Saint Helena, our first stop during the Atlantic crossing.

Rub A Dub, Dub, Three Guys and A Girl In A Tub…I Mean Sailboat

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Frederyk shouts through a chorus of laughter. His Polish accent is as thick as his sense of humor. Droplets of salty spray from Wavis Bay splash his brown rimmed glasses as his blue grey cycling shirt clad arms hold his guitar to his chest for safe keeping. The guitar has been Frederyk trusted companion traveling by bicycle from Poland to Africa since 2005, playing music on the streets as he goes.

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I can’t believe I am learning Polish swear words while getting soaked in this dingy” Billy bellows aloud, his South African Afrikaans accent compliments the laughable profanities. His leatherly brown shoes cling to his wet cotton socks as the waves splash over the bow. “Ziabeschieh…F#ck y’ah” Billy translates as our well provisioned vessel to cross the Atlantic disappears into the mist with the last of the afternoons sunshine. The 48 foot steel yacht named ‘This Side Up’ will wait on anchor for our return from a visit to shore.

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Niemo problemo, no problem” Frederyk laughs again as the Captain, leans on the throttle in a fruitless attempt to hurry the small engine into the oncoming winds. His white blonde long hair frames his youthful hardly wrinkled 60 year old face. He gleefully grimaces into the chilly wind. A grandfather of 14, father of 5 and a Harley Davidson rider turned around the world world sailor the Captain is a veteran to adventure.

The choppy waves lap over the air filled gray dingy walls. The wooden aged dock on shore is in plain site. White Namibian flamingos stand watch, their delicate legs stand knee deep in water. They watch and wait, peering out to the Atlantic as we make our way to the sandy shore.

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I am trucked tight, crouched with my feet firmly planted on the bouncy dingy floor, wedged between the throttle arm and Frederyk warm back.

You make a fine wind break Frederyk, Ziebeshiah” I giggle as I raise my dry arm and pat Frederyk on the back.

Niemo problemo” Frederyk says.

The dingy bounces to a halt at the dock with the Atlantic crew of ‘This Side Up’ smiling and swearing in polish. The first of many adventures to come with the May 27th departure for an Atlantic crossing beginning with a 10-14 day sail to Saint Helena.

Cape Town…Bare As You Dare

Take it all off people” I hear shouted from the police car. The police man’s uniformed arm is stretched out the open window. He is holding his cell phone camera. His face is wrinkled from smiling. He squints into the Cape Town Saturday morning sun. He is directing the busy traffic, 300 bicycles and their “bare as you dare” riders.

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A chorus of “I am cycling on the road…where is my bike lane?…” ricochets off the surrounding picturesque surroundings. The city is hugged by bare natural beauty on all sides, nestled into the base of Table mountain on one side and exposed to the Atlantic ocean on the other. It’s a stellar location for the third annual Cape Town World Naked Bike Ride.

A blur of fleshy hardly dressed people perch on top of tandem bicycles, unicycles, mountain bikes, and racing bikes surround me as I pedal along thinking this is a great way to end the Cairo to Capetown leg of my world bicycle tour. I hold my camera in one hand and the handle bars in the other, trying to stay balanced and ride Pandemic The Blushing Magic Bicycle. My legs are pedaling, my psyche is giggling while my eyes stare at 4 bare bums. Ok, I can be a grown up about all of this nudity, I reason to myself after catching myself staring at all the naked men and definitely, (if only for a moment), breaking the well known naked etiquette rule of no ogling.

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What a Great Funny View For a Solo Female Cyclist!

The painted slogans scribbled across the bare backs read “less gas, more ass”. I stop mid ride to adjust my “top”, a punctured bicycle tube that I fashioned into a tube top. I immediate realize that this crowd is not exactly going to care if my tube top actually did slip down, which it had.

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As I stand to the side of the road adjusting my “tube top”, two naked men on a tandem bicycle pedal by me. The man on the back wobbles, his naked body flaps in the breeze and he falls off the back of the bicycle. He quickly gets up and starts running down the street trying to catch up to his tandem partner who is doing his best to not cause a collision in the crowd of bicycles.

After all my sardonic remarks about cycling in 40-53 degree heat dressed in hijad in Sudan, Egypt, Iran, India and NW China, cycling while being free of clothing restrictions might just be the best fun a solo female cyclist can ever have. I smile to myself as I stand to the side, my top now adjusted, I start taking photos. I am thoroughly entertained by the nude tandem escapades. And, chuckling way too hard to care about the exact definition of “bare as you dare” as the trail of bicycles make their way into the city center, near the end of the World Naked Bike Ride. An event intended to remind the world that cyclists are vulnerable (naked) on the roads. That bicycles are a environmentally friendly form of transportation and a great way to meet people especially while cycle touring in Africa.

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Solo Female Cyclist in Ethiopia

Chit, Chat…Why Bicycle Touring In Africa Is Where It’s At!

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Heat radiates off the blackened tar road as the 40/104 c/f days begin to melt into a timeless collage of pushing the pedals. I am constantly giggly, smiling and singing to 1960’s classic tunes as my faded green tavu visor attempts to block out the sun’s continuous heat. Something has crossed over in me, not even the daily temperatures can interrupt my giddiness of heading for Capetown. The city and southern most point of Africa is only 750/466 km/m away.

A country wide barbed wire fence guards much of Namibia. Wild camping opportunities are minimal. Creative solutions keep me laughing as my international hobboist with bicycle status is elevated to a hole new level. I tuck inside a drain pipe under the road to escape the strong head winds and spend the night, humorously pondering where on earth this all went so wrong?
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As the morning luminescent light clears the hills on the western edge of the Kalahari desert, I am back in the saddle. I peer down the road over the handlebars. My eyes strain through the glare of the shimmering sun beams. A cyclist, the 7 I have seen in all of Africa is heading towards me. He must of started in Capetown I reason to myself as I grin giddy delight at someone to talk to. I do my best to not frighten him as I bounce to a hyper halt, hit the breaks and bellow out a huge overly enthusiastic. His shiny new ortlieb panniers, clean Thorn Sherpa Bicycle, neatly combed hair and grin of a realized dream in the embryo stage are spread across his smiling pale fresh face as he responds

I was wondering when I would meet my first cyclist, where did you come from?”

I raise my bright pink arm and brush the dirty sweat from my stinging sunburned smiling lips. I shift my swollen calloused feet as I straddle my faded green magic bicycle and answer

I started in Cairo then south through the Sahara of Sudan, west around Lake Victoria through Uganda, Rwanda then through Tanzania, down Lake Malawi across Zambia, Botswana into Namibia”

What about Ethiopia? How was that?” John, an ex-triathlete now on his first bicycle tour asks

Good Ol’e infamously demonized on blogs Ethiopia, I think to myself as I lean forward and adjust my oversized gear cables that were sent out to me by SJS (Ship Jack Shit) Cycles. Send, only after a lengthy 6 phone call ordeal to the British based bike shop who are in need of their own managerial adjustments.

Ethiopia, really isn’t as bad as all the blogs make it out to be… you will get hit by a few rocks maybe a stick but the Omo Valley is well worth the stone warfare and the occasional really bizarre person you will meet”. I answer and bust out laughing at how ridiculous that must sound to anyone who is on their way there.

What about Northern Kenya? How was that?”

Oh they shoot trucks there, so I pushed my bicycle through the sand for a week on the Western side of Lake Turkana into Kenya.” I continue laughing at how utterly not supportive I must sound about the thing I truly love about bicycle touring from Cairo to Capetown. That despite the horrific media reports, there is usually a safe fun way if you are up for an adventure.

I hear Sudan is wonderful, how was that?” John peers through his unscratched sunglasses, he looks at me, now also laughing at my poor descriptions of a truly beautiful continent. Countries rich with the birthplace of humanity, loads of nice people, stunning landscapes, welcoming schools for free camping and excellent photography for this website.

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Sudan?, Oh, I got stuck in a sandstorm, destroyed my MH skyledge 2.1 tent poles, so I slept out in the desert without a tent under the full moon thinking about scorpions for a week…I love Sudan, Nubian hospitality is amazing, one of the best places I have ever bicycle toured” I chuckle in a self deprecating, sardonic tone.

What are your plans, when you get to Capetown?” Jon grins as he cools off in the afternoon heat and unzips the top of his new clean cycling jersey.

I think I want to visit the mental hospital. I hear they have purple straight jackets, I look great in purple… actually, I will not be able to drink beer in a straight jacket, so I think I will just take a break from the road, rework my journal into a draft of a book while my stories are fresh in my head, have a good ride, take care”

I thank John for the laugh and wave goodbye. I watch him pedal away as he heads off towards a thousands stories of his own and the beautiful although wonderfully challenging continent that lies ahead.